Whatever Happened to Hamburger?

Hold it. I thought we were going to talk about food in the New Age. Things like hydroponic vegetables, vacuum technology, bio-sensoring, explosion puffing, reconstructed egg cubes. Whatever. Then I get an assignment to write something about hamburger. Hamburger? Yes. Whatever happened to good old American hamburger? That was the question. Well, the prognosis is not good. On the other hand, it’s not bad, considering how many things one can do with hamburger, how far it stretches the food budget, and its nutritional and nostalgic value. What family of the ‘50s did not have a meat loaf cooking in the oven at least once a week? According to the American Beef Institute, total ground beef consumption has increased from 21.9 pounds per capita in 1970 to 29 pounds in 1987, but it is believed that at-home consumption of hamburger has decreased. “We get our clue from spending patterns,” said Jens Knutson, economist at the American Meat Institute in Washington. “Away-from-home spending has increased sixfold, from about $25 billion in 1970 to $156 billion in 1988. On the other hand, at-home spending has not increased proportionately--$74 in 1970 to $255 in 1988. That’s only a threefold increase,” he said. “To us that means that away-from-home dining out has increased dramatically while home dining has decreased.” Since 1978, there has been a 12% decrease in home consumption of hamburger, according to the Lempert Report, a newsletter specializing in marketing analysis, issues and trends. If you think that’s bad, hot-dog consumption has gone down 17% in the last 10 years. The decrease in total beef consumption from 80 pounds per capita in 1970 to 73.4 pounds per person in 1987 reflects, say health experts, consumer concerns about fat intake. Knutson can only speculate as to reasons for the downward trend in home cooking and its effect on hamburger.

“A good guess is that with two-income families on the rise, there is little time for home cooking and sharpening of home-cooking skills. It’s easier for people to eat out these days,” he said. Does that mean the days when children ran into the kitchen following the aroma of cookies baking in the oven and pot roast browning on the stove are gone forever? Just about. But there are still cooks who find the kitchen a therapeutic place to create nutritious, low-cost meals. And hamburger, whosecost per pound has risen from 66 cents in 1970 to $1.31 in 1987, still represents an excellent food bargain. A little--one pound--goes a long way when combined with vegetables or grains.

We dug into the ‘50s (via our recipe files) to resurrect tried-and-true recipes using hamburger, the standard fare of many families in those days. What we found--and had almost forgotten--was a treasure trove of inexpensive, nutritional recipes. Things like hamburger pie, Chinese casserole and Sloppy Joe.

Hamburger requires no cutting or trimming; it is ready to use and quick to cook. There are neither long hours spent over a hot stove, nor elaborate concoctions that defeat the purpose of ease and convenience.

If fat is a concern, check the label on packages of hamburger. Generally speaking, hamburger made with cube steak, top round or beef tips is lower in fat and calories than hamburger made with bottom round, top loin or sirloin.

Ground meat from chuck, brisket or rib steak contains more fat and calories, about 209 to 244 calories per three ounces compared to 157 to 204 for the lower-fat meats mentioned.

Fat Percentage Varies

The percentage of fat the meat contains varies, but 3 ounces of lean hamburger contain a total of 19 milligrams of fat. (By comparison, chicken with skin contains 15 milligrams fat; eggs 12 milligrams, and salmon 6.6 milligrams.)

The cholesterol levels of beef are lower than those for same-size servings of pork, roast or fried chicken, veal and dark meat of turkey (about 73 milligrams, or 24% of the daily level of 300 milligrams recommended by the American Heart Assn.).

Our old recipes show that ground beef commonly was sauteed with some fat. Addition of fat is no longer recommended when searing or sauteing ground beef in a nonstick pan. In addition, draining off excess fat can further reduce total fat intake.

In the old days, hamburger casseroles were a convenience entree that mothers could prepare early in the day and heat up when the troops arrived home for dinner. Today, some of those casserole concoctions can be prepared quickly in a skillet, because hamburger takes minutes to cook and is easily combined with noodles, rice and other grains, or vegetables for a quick, nutritious meal.

Casseroles, such as the tamale casserole given here, were a standby of hosts who needed to avoid last-minute work. Other casseroles, such as the Oriental concoction, were buffet table favorites.

Chile and tacos are dinner-time favorites even today and can be made at home in a flash, with additions such as chopped onions, guacamole, sour cream, lettuce and tomatoes to boost their nutritional and taste value.

Recipe on Package Mix.

The recipe for cheeseburger pie probably originated on the package of pie crust mix. Leftover crust found its way to the dinner table with hamburger as a filling and cheese slices as a topping. A side of spinach or other vegetables rounded out the entree.

Meatballs simmering in a thick tomato sauce ready to spoon over spaghetti--it is as beloved a dish today as it was in the ‘50s, when the only pasta most of us recognized came with meatballs or meat sauce.

Stuffed peppers, too, are an ongoing classic that defy age. The nice thing about the dish is that stuffed peppers can be prepared well in advance and served at room temperature or hot. Some people, in fact, eat them cold, straight from the fridge. It’s also a good meal to prepare in quantity and store in the freezer.

The Times’ Marian Manners Meat Loaf was a favorite of several former Times food editors. One such original recipe calls for beef, pork and veal; however, we found that using only ground beef was completely satisfying and tasty. The loaf usually was served with tomato sauce or gravy. We added a tomato sauce to Marian Manners Meat Loaf.

Sloppy Joe Craze

Sloppy Joes were big time in the ‘50s. All you had to do was season a pound or two of ground beef with catsup, Worcestershire sauce and chile powder. Sloppy Joe was also part of the makings for tacos, enchiladas and spaghetti meat sauce--quick, easy, versatile.

Another favorite of the time was the Diamond Jim Special, named after Diamond Jim Brady, a turn-of-the-century financier who enjoyed consuming food and amassing fortunes. The special is a simple yet nutritious concoction of ground beef, spinach and eggs. High in protein, the Diamond Jim Special makes a splendid dish to serve children who won’t eat spinach. In this dish, they will hardly know the green, leafy vegetable is present.

Salisbury steak could do no wrong when it was king of hamburger--before the advent of fast-food hamburgers. It’s really a steak formed from ground beef and served with Belmont Sauce, a simplified gravy made with catsup, Worcestershire sauce and mustard. Sherry added to the sauce enhances the flavor but is not essential.

Noodle-beef casseroles in numerous variations were part of the ‘50’s repertoire for many families. They still make a good pantry shelf dish to serve a family in a budget or time pinch.

Shepherd’s Pie is an inheritance from Britain that has graced American tables throughout the decades, especially when leftover mashed potatoes were on hand. All you do is top sauteed meat seasoned with tomato and gravy with the potatoes and voila, a dish fit for family, friends or potluck suppers.

Here is a group of popular dishes from the past using hamburger.

(Food Styling by Minnie Bernardino and Donna Deane)

CHINESE BEEF CASSEROLE

1 pound ground beef

1 cup minced onion

1/2 cup snow peas or 1 (10-ounce) package mixed vegetables

1/2 cup water

1 (10 3/4-ounce) can cream of mushroom soup

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 tablespoon soy sauce

2 cups chopped celery

1 (4-ounce) can pimiento, drained and cut julienne

1 (3-ounce) can Chinese noodles

Brown beef in skillet. Add onion and cook until tender. Pour off drippings.

Cook peas in water 5 minutes and drain. Combine peas, soup, salt, pepper, soy sauce, celery and pimiento and stir into meat mixtures. Heat through.

Sprinkle with Chinese noodles. Makes 6 servings.

Note: If made ahead, place meat mixture in 2 1/2-quart casserole. Cover and bake at 350 degrees 20 minutes. Remove cover, sprinkle with noodles and bake 5 minutes longer.

CHEESEBURGER PIE

2 pounds ground beef

2 cups soft bread crumbs

1/2 cup crushed dry corn flake cereal

2 eggs

1/4 cup strong coffee

1/4 cup evaporated milk

1 medium onion, minced

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

Few drops hot pepper sauce

1 tablespoon prepared horseradish

1 tablespoon prepared mustard

1 (10-inch) unbaked pie shell

1/4 cup bottled chili sauce or catsup

5 slices Muenster, Swiss, Jack or Cheddar cheese

Combine beef, bread crumbs, cereal, eggs, coffee, evaporated milk, onion, Worcestershire, hot pepper sauce, horseradish and mustard. Pack into pie shell.

Spread chili sauce over filling. Bake at 425 degrees 15 minutes. Reduce heat to 350 degrees and bake 30 minutes longer.

Cut cheese slices into triangles and arrange over pie. Bake 5 to 10 minutes longer or until cheese melts. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

L.A. TACOS

1 pound lean ground beef

Salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

Dash black pepper

1/4 cup catsup or bottled chili sauce

1/2 cup lard or oil

10 corn tortillas

1/2 onion, sliced

Shredded lettuce

1 tomato, cut in thin wedges

Shredded Jack cheese

Guacamole

Sour cream or crema

Bottled salsa

Cook meat until browned, stirring to crumble. Season to taste with salt and add cumin and pepper. Stir in catsup. Heat through.

Heat lard or oil in skillet. Fry each tortilla until softened, then fold in 1/2 and cook on each side until crisp. Drain.

Fill each taco shell with heaping tablespoon of meat. Add few slices onion, generous amount of lettuce, little tomato and cheese. Top with Guacamole, sour cream and salsa, if desired. Makes 10 tacos.

Guacamole

1 small avocado, halved and peeled

2 teaspoons minced onion

Dash garlic powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 teaspoon lemon juice

1 small tomato, chopped

Mash avocado and blend in onion, garlic powder, salt, pepper and lemon juice. Fold in tomato. Makes 1 1/4 cups.

STUFFED GREEN PEPPERS

1 pound lean ground beef

1 small onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 teaspoon crushed dried oregano

1/2 cup rice

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

Water

Salt, pepper, paprika

6 green peppers

Saute ground beef with onion, garlic, parsley and oregano until meat is browned. Add rice and saute until translucent.

Add 1/2 tomato paste and 1 cup water and simmer 5 minutes or until liquid is almost absorbed. Season to taste with salt, pepper and paprika.

Cut caps off peppers and remove white membrane. Reserve caps. Spoon meat mixture loosely into pepper cavities.

Mix remaining tomato paste with 2 cups water and pour over peppers and into pan. Cover peppers with caps. Bake, covered, at 350 degrees 1 hour, basting occasionally. Remove cover and bake 20 minutes longer or until peppers are tender, basting frequently. Makes 6 servings.

Note: Add more liquid to pan if necessary to keep moist.

MARIAN MANNERS’ FAVORITE MEAT LOAF

2 pounds lean ground beef or thirds of beef, pork and turkey

1 1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon poultry seasoning

1/8 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

1 cup milk, water or 1/2 cup water and 1/2 cup dry red wine

1 cup dry white bread crumbs

Combine meats with salt, poultry seasoning, hot pepper sauce and mix thoroughly. Add milk to crumbs and let stand 5 minutes. Add to meat mixture and mix thoroughly. Beat with spoon if possible.

Pack mixture into loaf pan and bake at 325 degrees 1 1/4 hours. Makes 6 servings.

SPAGHETTI AND MEAT BALLS

1 pound lean ground beef

Salt, pepper

Dash paprika

1 slice white, wheat or French bread

1/2 cup water

1 egg

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 teaspoon crushed dried basil or oregano

2 small onions, minced

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 stalk celery with leaves, sliced

1 (16-ounce) can tomato puree

1 (6-ounce) can tomato paste

2 tomato paste cans water

1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper

12 ounces spaghetti

Season beef with salt and pepper to taste. Add paprika, bread slice, water, egg, parsley, basil, 1/2 onion and 1/2 garlic. Mix well. Shape into balls about 1 1/2-inch in diameter.

Heat oil in skillet and add remaining onion, garlic and celery. Saute until onion is tender.

Add tomato puree, paste and tomato paste cans of water. Bring to boil. Add salt and pepper to taste and red pepper. Reduce heat. Add meat balls. Cover and simmer over low heat 1 hour or until sauce is thickened.

About 25 minutes before serving, cook spaghetti in boiling salted water until tender. Drain. Place on large serving plate.

Pour some sauce over spaghetti and toss to mix well. Top with remaining sauce and surround with meat balls. Makes 6 servings.

CALIFORNIA TAMALE CASSEROLE

3/4 cup yellow cornmeal

1 1/2 cups milk

1 egg, beaten

1 pound lean ground beef

1 package chili seasoning mix

2 teaspoons seasoned salt

1 (1-pound) can tomatoes

1 (17-ounce) can whole kernel corn, drained

1 (7 1/2-ounce) can pitted black olives, drained

1 cup shredded Cheddar cheese

Combine cornmeal, milk and egg in 2 1/2-quart casserole. Brown meat in skillet, stirring to keep crumbly. Add chili seasoning mix, salt, tomatoes, corn and olives and mix well. Stir into cornmeal mixture.

Bake at 350 degrees 1 hour 15 minutes. Sprinkle cheese over top and bake 5 minutes longer. Makes 6 servings.

CALIFORNIA CHILI

2 pounds coarsely ground lean beef

1 large onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon dried oregano

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

2 tablespoons California chili powder

2 teaspoons New Mexico chili powder

1 (1-pound) can tomatoes

Salt

1 cup hot water

Place meat, onion and garlic in large saucepan or skillet. Cook over medium heat until browned, stirring to keep meat crumbly.

Add oregano, cumin and chili powders. Mix well, then stir in tomatoes, salt to taste and hot water. Bring to boil, reduce heat and simmer, covered, 1 hour. Skim off fat. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Note: Serve with hamburgers, hot dogs or beans.

SHEPHERD’S PIE

4 or 5 large potatoes

Salt

2 tablespoons butter or margarine

Dash milk or whipping cream

Pepper

1 pound lean ground beef

1 large tomato, chopped

6 mushrooms, sliced

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 tablespoon tomato paste

Dash Worcestershire sauce

1 cup brown gravy

1 (10-ounce) package frozen peas or 1 pound peas, shelled

Cook potatoes in salted water to cover. Drain, cool and peel. Mash in large bowl with butter, milk and season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.

Saute beef until browned, stirring to keep meat crumbly. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Add tomato, mushrooms, parsley, tomato paste, Worcestershire and gravy. Stir to mix. Add peas and cook about 5 minutes.

Turn mixture into casserole. Spread potatoes evenly over meat. Bake at 400 degrees 40 minutes until top is crispy brown. Makes 4 servings.

BASIC SLOPPY JOE

2 pounds lean ground beef

1 large onion, minced

2 teaspoons salt

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1/4 cup flour

2 cups water

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 1/2 cups catsup

1 to 2 teaspoons chili powder

Brown ground beef in large skillet until crumbly. Add onion and cook 5 minutes longer.

Add salt, pepper and flour and stir over medium heat 2 to 3 minutes. Add water, Worcestershire, catsup and chile powder. Stir, then simmer 20 minutes. Makes 16 servings.

Note: This may be prepared ahead of time or day before and refrigerated. Reheat at serving time.

DIAMOND JIM SPECIAL

1 pound ground beef

6 tablespoons minced onion

3 medium mushrooms, sliced

1 (10-ounce) package frozen chopped spinach, thawed

6 eggs, lightly beaten

Salt, pepper

Brown meat, stirring to keep crumbly. Add onion and mushrooms and cook until lightly browned.

Stir in well-drained spinach and eggs and cook, stirring, until eggs are set but still moist. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

SALISBURY STEAK

3 pounds lean ground beef

2 tablespoons finely chopped green pepper

1/4 cup finely chopped onion

2 tablespoons chopped parsley

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 to 1 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

1/2 teaspoon dried thyme

Flour

1/4 cup oil

Belmont Sauce

Combine meat, green pepper, onion, parsley, salt, hot pepper sauce and thyme in large bowl. Shape meat mixture into 8 oval patties. Sprinkle lightly with flour and brush with oil.

Broil approximately 10 minutes on each side or to desired doneness. Place on platter and pour Belmont Sauce over steaks. Makes 8 servings.

Belmont Sauce

3 tablespoons butter or margarine

1/2 cup catsup

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1 teaspoon prepared mustard

1/4 teaspoon hot pepper sauce

2 tablespoons Sherry

Melt butter in saucepan. Stir in catsup, lemon juice, Worcestershire, mustard and hot pepper sauce. Blend thoroughly.

Add Sherry and bring just to boiling point. Makes 8 servings.

HAMBURGER-NOODLE CASSEROLE

1 pound ground beef

1/2 cup chopped onion

3/4 cup milk

1 (8-ounce) package cream cheese, cubed

8 ounces wide noodles

1 (12-ounce) can whole kernel corn, drained

1 (10 3/4-ounce) can cream of mushroom soup

1/4 cup chopped pimiento

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

Dash pepper

Brown beef, stirring to keep crumbly. Add onion and cook until tender. Stir in milk and cheese, blending thoroughly.

Cook noodles and drain. Add noodles, corn, soup, pimiento, salt and pepper to beef mixture. Pour into 2-quart casserole and bake at 350 degrees 30 minutes or until hot and bubbly. Makes 6 servings.