Fashion : Shoes Shine : Glitter and Rich Fabrics in Footlights

Shoes this season are flights of fancy. And the favorite inspirations for them are the 19th-Century Russian Empire of Nicholas and Alexandra, or the 18th-Century courts of the French kings Louis. Rich tapestry, brocade, taffeta, satin or velvet styles are meant for day as well as evening wear. Even leather and suede shoes are embroidered, some in gold.

The shapes are unusual too. They may have round, square or pointed toes, but heels are always shapely. And the high-cut decollete covers more of the foot than did styles in recent seasons. Flat heels are still an option, especially if they resemble delicate, handmade slippers.

The decorative look and spirit of the shoes is such a change in direction they all but require instructions in how to wear them.

“Start with a color story that you love to wear,” says Shauna Stein, whose shop in the Beverly Center carries her name. That’s the single firm rule, she believes. “Shoes can be the only pattern or color you wear or one of many. They can be an opposite feeling or the same feeling as the rest of what you are wearing.”

Fancier footwear has a definite place in updating last year’s wardrobe. Think what they will do for a starkly tailored suit. But they also provide the right amount of curve and romance for this year’s softer fashions.

And, startlingly different as these new shoes appear to be, their decorative look takes its cue from the shoes, and even the dresses and hats, that French designer Christian Lacroix first introduced several years ago. The dresses alone were confections in bright-colored taffeta and satin. The hats were whimsical and the couture-inspired shoes were made to impress any modern-day Madame Pompadour.

It’s almost impossible to make a mistake in selecting a pair, because fashion today has adapted an Einsteinian philosophy: Everything is relative.

The trick comes in choosing the hosiery and handbag to go with them. Generally, opaque hose without patterns or textures are considered the best leg-wear alternative. Or, for a totally classic look, a good pair of skin-toned sheer stockings are never out of place.

As for colors, “Stockings can match your shoes, or they can contrast,” says Joan Wills, who owns the Fogal hosiery shop on Rodeo Drive that has 215 colors to chose from. “Monotone is generally slimming and lengthening,” Wills adds.

When shoes are strikingly romantic or baroque, handbags must follow--quietly, not competitively. Pouches are a leading shape, in colors or patterns that complement the embroidered shoes, not necessarily match them.

“Softer bags are best,” says Stephanie Wargo, vice president and fashion director of apparel and accessories for the Broadway. “There are lots of interesting details, such as tassels and braids, to go with the feeling of the luxury shoes this fall. Bags don’t have to match; they can be an accent.”

Aside from the visual appeal, perhaps the best thing about the fancy new footwear is that it is available at all prices. At the Broadway, Unisa’s tapestry slipper is $54. Bullock’s and Bullocks Wilshire have Cole Haan tapestry flats at $140. Willy Van Roy’s decorative collection, priced under $200, is at Ron Ross in Tarzana.

At $200 and above, there are styles by Robert Clergerie of Paris and Sybilla of Spain, in leather and suede, at Ecru in Los Angeles. Shauna Stein’s selection starts around $145 for a printed Byzantine suede flat from Accessoire and goes upward to a few hundred for Romeo Gigli shoes or for handmade Maude Frizons.

Stores including Sacha and Chandlers have hip interpretations of designers originals priced around $100.