RESTAURANTS : The Pasta Is Distinctive and the Breaded Veal Cutlet Unforgettable

Sapori is an upscale Italian restaurant that has just opened in one of the posher Newport strip malls, a modish, punk-elegant neighborhood trattoria with serious cooking going on. As soon as the chefs and waiters get the kinks ironed out, dinner here should go as smoothly as a good Alfredo sauce with fettuccine.

The stoves are being manned by two brothers, Adriano and Franco Maniacci of Palermo. Despite their Sicilian upbringing, almost every province in Italy pops up on the menu and they tend to favor cooking styles from the north.

Half the seats are out on the restaurant’s outdoor patio, where linen-topped tables are protected by beachy white umbrellas. Inside, an ultra-masculine stone floor is offset by ultra-feminine walls of light beige. Still, the room gets so noisy you often can’t hear ordinary table talk. I found the patio more relaxing.

The waiters are just like those you would find in a real trattoria --animated, casual and impossibly Italian. They amble about in skintight tuxedoes, and every one of them has perfect hair.

When we ordered the eccentric-sounding salmon carpaccio, our waiter suggested we try the carpaccio di bue (thinly sliced raw tenderloin with capers, lemon and sliced Parmesan). When we asked why, he leaned over and whispered, “because the salmon, we are out of.”

That wasn’t the only thing the restaurant was out of that night. Several wines weren’t in stock, there was no San Pellegrino mineral water, the vitello tonnato was sold out, and the risotto, crespelle (crepes with scampi), and all grilled dishes were unavailable. By now, the grill should be installed, but even if it’s not, there are plenty of other dishes to choose from. It’s a large, imaginative menu.

Mozzarella peperoni alici all’olio balsamico makes an excellent starter. It’s a poached mozzarella served with Portuguese anchovies, pungently sweet marinated red pepper and a first-class oil. Bruschetta di pane Saraceno (triangles of roasted wheat bread with a garlic puree) is another good one.

The hot appetizers have more body, but not necessarily more soul. When the vaunted vitello tonnato was finally available it came across as a bit salty and slightly dry. Zuppa di cozze e vongole would be my choice--black mussels and clams are served in a natural juice loaded with flakes of red chile and minced garlic.

Pasta is Sapori’s specialty. There are nearly 20 dishes with original, distinctive flavors. There’s a dill-green lasagna with lobster called lasagnette al soffio di mare. Gnochetti Sardi are ear-shaped dumplings from Sardinia with bacon, broccoli and cream.

My favorite among them is probably mezzanine di grano Saraceno all Pik Pak (a ribbed, tubular brown pasta in a simple, flavorful sauce).

Panzotti ai due salmoni in salsa di tonno is wonderful, too; it’s a two-color triangle stuffed with salmon in a light sauce. Agnollotti all’aragosta (a saffron pasta filled with lobster, ricotta and Cognac) comes across as bland in comparison.

Sapori also prepares several seafood and meat entrees, all generously garnished with roasted potatoes and sauteed vegetables. Suprema di rombo is perfectly poached turbot in an impressively delicate sauce made from leek and watercress. As to the osso buco , the veal shank is aromatically spiced, almost like a Greek dish. Franco’s cotoletta panata alla Milanese (the well-traveled breaded veal cutlet) is simply the best I can remember anywhere. Veal may be controversial these days, but this breading isn’t; the golden, crispy brown crust is full-flavored with Gruyere.

The only dessert I can recommend is tirami su , a Maniacci family specialty. It’s homemade and cut in wedges, full of a sabayon-like whipped cream between crunchy ladyfingers, with a small mountain of cocoa powder on top. The other desserts are store-bought. A New York cheesecake came frozen solid, and a slightly thawed raspberry mousse tasted like soap. Sentimentalists can finish with an old-time spumoni wrapped up in wax paper, or retire more sensibly with espresso and caffe latte that are sheer perfection, just like the waiters’ hair.

Sapori is moderate to expensive. Antipasti are $4.50 to $7. Pastas run $7.95 to $14.75. Main courses are $13.50 to $22.50. There is an impressive, pricey wine list featuring Italian boutique wines from red-hot producers such as Angelo Gaja and Monte Vertine.

SAPORI

1080 Bayside Drive, Newport Beach, (714) 644-4220

Open Sunday through Thursday 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.

All major credit cards accepted.