Virtually impossible to find in Southland restaurants a decade ago, risotto--a traditional Italian rice dish--is rapidly gaining local admirers thanks to the work of some innovative chefs. : RISOTTO

“People don’t know what risotto is. We have a tough time explaining,” lamented chef Umberto Bombana of Il Pazzia in West Hollywood.

So echoed Celestino Drago of Celestino Ristorante and Antonio Tommasi of Locanda Veneta, whose menus are veritable treasure troves of the most creative and inspired risotto recipes.

The trouble is that American diners think of fluffy, snow-white grains whenever rice is mentioned. I remember many years ago reading a food writer’s description of risotto as a “poor excuse for pilaf” because it was “runny and wet,” not dry, as she expected rice to be.

Italian risotto is something different. It is not the dry, fluffy white rice served in the United States. Nor is it the mushy Spanish type, the sticky Oriental rice or the translucent Persian rice that looks like individual pearls piled on a plate.

The stubby, short grains of arborio, the preferred rice for risotto, are farmed in Italy’s northern Po Valley and are neither fluffy nor necessarily white after cooking. Risotto, the term used to mean rice cooked in broth, is characteristically creamy--like a loose rice pudding--with tender grains best enjoyed al dente (firm to the bite) . Cooked risotto may be the color of yellow (when it’s made with saffron), red (beets), black (squid ink) or numerous colorful combinations.

Risotto can be served with nothing more than a sprinkling of Parmesan cheese or full of vegetables, meat, fish or poultry.

The broth is the most critical element of risotto because its gradual addition in increments of one-half cup over a 25- to 30-minute cooking period causes the rice to swell and form the desirable creamy mass. Seasonal meats (fish or fowl), sausages, hams, herbs, vegetables, cheese and even truffles often are added to the rice as well as used to flavor the broth. And especially aromatic ingredients, such as truffles or woodsy mushrooms, are sometimes added to the uncooked rice during storage to enhance its flavor when cooked.

I was introduced to risotto on my first visit to Rome some years ago, when the dish was brought to the table in a shallow soup bowl accompanied by a spoon. Nothing I had ever eaten in Italian restaurants in the United States had prepared me for that pudding-like, creamy rice served in a soup bowl. Back then, no Italian restaurant in which I had dined in Los Angeles served risotto. One spoonful, however, and I was hooked. The smooth, velvety texture of rice brought me back to the soothing food of my childhood--things such as rice pudding, farina, and creamy chicken-and-rice soup came to mind.

It was porcini season at the time, and the risotto was laden with slivers of that fragrant mushroom in a velvety amber sauce, much like the recipe from Valentino Restaurant, Santa Monica, given here.

“Don’t forget to place some mushrooms in the rice when you store it. It will impart a wonderful aroma in the rice,” suggested Piero Selvaggio, Valentino’s owner.

Risotto arrived (in more than just the literal way) in Los Angeles within the last decade, brought by the area’s growing influx of modern Italian chefs, who have inspired my appetite for an Italian cuisine I never knew existed before their arrival.

Since then, the palate has been dazzled with such risottos as those made with venison, lamb, fresh asparagus, quail, squid ink, calamari and, yes, shavings of very expensive, fresh Italian white truffles, which, in fact, should be available in Los Angeles gourmet markets just about now.

In researching this article, several unusual risotto dishes were discovered. A risotto made with Parma prosciutto (an imported cured ham product recently allowed entry into the United States after a 21-year ban) contained a paper-thin strip of prosciutto resting over the rice. Shrimp also flavored the broth in which the rice was cooked.

Drago, of Celestino Ristorante in Beverly Hills, served a risotto of scampi and mint. The langostine, imported from Italian waters and still wriggling in their container when Drago began to prepare them, were quite succulent when cooked. Drago sauteed the tails with minced mint and added the seafood to the rice. The heads and shells were used to flavor the broth in which the rice was cooked. The result was a bare hint of mint in the risotto.

Tommasi, of Locanda Veneta in Los Angeles, prepared risotto with lobster, asparagus and saffron, a sure-hit combination that adds golden color and incredible flavor to the rice. Only the tails were used for the risotto, but the shells were used to flavor the broth and decorate the plate.

Another risotto, served at Il Pazzia, contained pumpkin, which is ideal during the fall and winter season when it is available fresh. Yet another dish was colored and flavored with squid ink.

A risotto recipe from “Elisa Celli’s Italian Light Cooking” (Prentice Hall) called for sparkling wine in the broth. In fact, wine is frequently a component of risotto, added to the sauteed ingredients, or to the rice. Some cooks use liqueurs and wines, such as Marsala, and even hard liquor such as vodka.

The variations for flavoring and enhancing risotto’s appeal and nutritional value are unlimited, but the technique for cooking all risotto is standard, although with nuances.

The first step is to saute onion in butter or oil, or both. Die-hards, such as chef Bombana, scoff at the indiscriminate use of olive oil in risotto. “Only butter should be used when cooking vegetables and meat; olive oil when fish is used,” he claims.

Garlic may or may not be used according to preference and the proper balance of ingredients. Sometimes shallots are preferred over onions for a sharper flavor.

At this point, herbs, meat, shellfish or vegetables can be added, depending on the desired result. Wine can be added and heated until reduced to a glaze for flavor enhancement--the better the wine, the better the flavor. Most of the alcohol will evaporate upon heating. Wine can also be added along with the broth at a later time.

The next step is to add the rice, stirring it in butter or oil until the grains are coated and translucent. “This locks in the firmness of the rice,” explained Drago.

Next, the broth is added in increments of one-half cup, stirring until the rice absorbs the liquid before adding more broth. The idea is to keep adding liquid slowly as it is absorbed until the rice kernels are done to the proper consistency. One may have to add more or less liquid, depending on absorption and the intensity of heat.

Try, Try Again for Perfect Rice

All liquid amounts in risotto recipes are approximate, contingent on the cook’s discretion. Experience is the best teacher in determining the proper balance and control of the ingredients, so don’t hesitate to try, try again if not fully satisfied with results the first time. Practice does make perfect.

Risotto is done when the rice is firm to the bite but tender and the mass of creaminess is velvety in consistency. Sometimes, however, a more watery or wet risotto is prefered for some dishes, such as those eaten as you would soup.

Stirring while cooking is essential, not only to keep the rice from sticking to the bottom of the pan when the liquid is absorbed but to distribute the hot liquid evenly throughout the entire mass of rice during cooking.

Maintaining Balance of Liquid Important

Under no circumstances should liquid drown the rice. Adding too much liquid could be as bad as not adding enough to create moisture.

Heat too should be uniformly moderate, not too low or too high. If too low, the rice will become gummy. Excessively high heat will cause the rice kernels to cook only outside, leaving the inner core tough.

Total cooking time should be from 25 to 30 minutes of gradual, incremental cooking with constant stirring. So do plan on making risotto when there is time to spend at the stove. Cooking risotto for company can be fun, if you make the cooking a part of the entertainment.

Restaurant chefs, however, use a trick involving semi-cooked rice to expedite risotto for diners, who do not expect to wait 30 minutes for their first course to arrive. The method is not recommended for aficionados who insist on freshly made risotto, but it is an excellent method to keep in mind when time is precious.

Secrets of Restaurant Risotto Chefs

The rice is precooked to the half-way point, at the stage when the outside kernel is tender but inner kernel is hard. The rice is then spread out in a pan to prevent further cooking. When an order is entered, the rice is added to the pan and is finished with additions of sauteed onions, other desired ingredients and hot broth, thus cutting time from 30 to about 15 minutes.

Risotto is, like pasta, considered a first course. it can be eaten after the antipasto or it can replace the antipasto. Any meat, fish or fowl may follow the rice (or pasta) course.

Risotto, like pasta, also can be served as an entree with nothing preceding or following it except, perhaps, salad or dessert. Risotto makes an excellent meal-in-a-dish when vegetables, meats or other ingredients are added.

Risotto should be served immediately after cooking with or without a sprinkling of Parmesan or other grated cheese. Additional cheese can be served on the side, if desired. Risotto goes well with wine, either dry white or red, depending on complementary ingredients.

(Los Angeles Times Food Styling by Minnie Bernardino and Donna Deane)

CELESTINO’S SCAMPI RISOTTO

1 1/2 quarts chicken broth, about

8 langostines (Italian prawns) or prawns

3 tablespoons olive oil

2 medium shallots, minced

1 1/2 teaspoons chopped fresh mint leaves

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 cups arborio rice (short-grain Italian rice)

Salt, pepper

1 1/2 teaspoons butter

Additional mint leaves

Heat broth and add 4 prawns. Poach 3 minutes until prawns turn red. Remove from broth, cool and peel tails. Return shells and heads to broth. Coarsely chop tail meat. Remove tails from remaining 4 raw prawns and set aside. Add heads and shells to broth.

Heat olive oil. Add half shallots and mint and saute until shallots are golden. Add chopped and whole prawn tails. Saute until heated through. Add half wine and simmer until liquid is almost absorbed. Remove whole tails. Set aside.

In another pan heat 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil. Add remaining shallots and saute until tender. Add rice and saute 30 seconds until translucent. Add remaining 1/4 cup wine. Simmer until wine evaporates.

Add 1 cup broth and season to taste with salt and pepper. Cook until broth is almost absorbed. Continue to add broth in 1/2-cup increments, waiting until liquid is absorbed before adding more broth, about 10 minutes, stirring constantly. Continue to add broth in 1/2-cup increments, waiting until liquid is absorbed before adding more broth, 10 minutes longer.

Add remaining wine and broth in 1/2-cup increments. Cook, adding as much additional broth as necessary until rice is tender, but al dente, or to desired consistency, stirring constantly. Stir in chopped tails and butter. Cook, stirring until butter melts. Garnish plates with reserved whole tails and additional mint leaves. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

VALENTINO’S RISOTTO WITH PORCINI

1 tablespoon olive oil

1/2 small onion, chopped

12 ounces arborio rice (short-grain Italian rice)

1 1/2 quarts chicken broth, about

1/2 cup white wine

Salt, pepper

Dash minced garlic

1/2 pound mixed imported fresh porcini mushrooms, sliced lengthwise, stems removed

1 1/2 ounces Parmesan cheese, grated

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

Heat oil in large skillet. Add onion and saute until onion is tender. Add rice and saute until well coated. Add broth in 1/2-cup increments, waiting until broth is absorbed before adding more broth, about 15 minutes, stirring constantly. Add wine, bring to simmer.

Continue to add liquid until used and rice is creamy, about 10 minutes longer, adding enough more broth as necessary, until rice is tender, but al dente, or to desired consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add garlic and mushrooms. Mix again. Remove from heat. Add half Parmesan cheese. Add butter and mix well. Continue to heat until butter melts. Mound risotto on platter. Sprinkle with remaining cheese. Makes 6 servings.

UMBERTO’S PUMPKIN RISOTTO

1/2 onion, chopped

1/4 cup butter

1/2 pound arborio rice (short-grain Italian rice)

1 1/4 pounds pumpkin, cubed

1 cup dry white wine

6 cups chicken or vegetable broth, about

Salt, pepper

1/4 grated Parmesan cheese

Fresh pumpkin slices

Italian parsley sprigs

Saute onion in half butter until tender. Add rice and saute 30 seconds to coat well. Add pumpkin and saute 30 seconds. Add wine and reduce until almost absorbed. Add broth in 1/2-cup increments, waiting until liquid is absorbed by rice before adding as much liquid as necessary, until rice is tender but al dente, about 25 to 30 minutes, stirring constantly. Add remaining 2 tablespoons butter and season to taste with salt and pepper. Add cheese. Garnish with slices of fresh pumpkin and parsley leaves. Makes 6 servings.

SQUID INK RISOTTO

6 cups chicken broth, about

4 Santa Barbara shrimp or prawns

1/2 onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

3 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 pound arborio (short-grain Italian rice)

1 cup white wine

1/2 cup tomato puree

1 teaspoon squid ink

Salt, pepper

8 Manila clams or small clams

1 small tomato, peeled and diced

Italian parsley sprigs

Heat broth. Add shrimp and cook until they turn red in color. Remove shrimp from broth and peel. Drop peels and shrimp heads back into broth. Coarsely chop shrimp. Set aside.

Saute onion and garlic in 2 tablespoons olive oil. Add rice and saute 30 seconds until rice is coated. Add wine and reduce until almost absorbed. Strain or remove shells from broth. Add broth in 1/2-cup increments, waiting until liquid is absorbed by rice before adding more as necessary until rice is tender but al dente, about 25 to 30 minutes, stirring constantly. Stir in tomato puree and ink.

Season to taste with salt and pepper. In separate pan heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil. Add clams and cook covered until clams open (adding some water to pan if too dry). Add clams to rice. Garnish with diced tomato and parsley. Makes 6 servings.

RISOTTO WITH PROSCIUTTO AND SHRIMP

6 cups chicken broth, about

8 Santa Barbara shrimp or prawns

1/2 onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, minced

2 tablespoons olive oil

1/2 pound arborio rice (short-grain Italian rice)

1 cup dry white wine

1/2 cup tomato puree

1/4 teaspoon chopped fresh mint leaves

1/4 teaspoon chopped fresh peppermint leaves

2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese

Salt, pepper

12 paper-thin slices prosciutto

1 cup cubed melon or melon balls

Sprigs of mint

Heat broth. Add shrimp and cook until they turn red in color. Remove shrimp from broth and peel. Drop peels and shrimp heads back into broth. Coarsely chop shrimp. Set aside.

Saute onion and garlic in oil. Add rice and saute 30 seconds until rice is coated. Add wine and reduce until absorbed. Strain or remove shells from broth. Add broth in 1/2-cup increments, waiting until liquid is absorbed before adding as much broth as necessary, until rice is tender but al dente, about 25 to 30 minutes, stirring constantly. Stir in tomato puree, mint leaves and cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Spoon onto serving plates or platter and top with prosciutto slices, allowing 2 slices per serving. Garnish with melon and mint sprigs. Makes 6 servings.

ELISA CELLI’S RISOTTO D’CHAMPAGNE

1 cup chopped shallots

10 ounces porcini mushrooms, thinly sliced

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 cups arborio (short-grain Italian rice)

1 teaspoon Italian herb seasoning

1 cup warm water

3 cups Italian brut sparkling wine, about

1 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley

1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

In large casserole, saute shallots and mushrooms in butter 3 minutes over medium heat. Add rice, herb seasoning and small amounts of water and wine until rice is cooked, about 20 to 25 minutes. Add parsley and cheese. Serve at once. Makes 6 servings.

SEAFOOD RISOTTO

2 onions, chopped

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 teaspoon crushed dried red pepper

2 tablespoons virgin olive oil

2 cups arborio (short-grain Italian rice)

2 cups dry white Italian or Spanish wine

2 cups chicken or fish broth, about

1 (8-ounce) can Italian plum tomatoes, crushed

1 tablespoon fresh chopped basil leaves

Salt, pepper

6 clams

6 shrimp, cleaned, but not peeled

1/2 pound crab meat

2 lobster tails, cut into 3 sections each

Chopped parsley

Saute onions, garlic and pepper in oil in large skillet or paella pan until onions are tender. Add rice and saute until rice is translucent. Add 1 cup wine and cook until absorbed. Continue to add wine and broth in 1/2-cup increments, adding more liquid as necessary until rice is tender but al dente, stirring constantly, about 20 minutes. Add tomatoes, basil and season to taste with salt and pepper.

Bring to boil. Reduce heat and add clams, shrimp, crab meat and lobster meat. Cook about 5 to 7 minutes longer or until clams open and lobster is done. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Makes 6 servings.

SAFFRON RISOTTO

1/2 cup unsalted butter or margarine

1 medium onion, peeled and cubed

1 pound arborio (short-grain Italian rice)

1/8 teaspoon powdered saffron

1/2 cup dry white wine

2 quarts chicken broth, about

Salt

1/4 pound Parmesan cheese, grated

Melt butter in skillet and add onion. Cook over medium heat until onion is tender, do not brown. Add rice and saute 30 seconds until coated. Stir in saffron and wine. Reduce until wine is absorbed.

Add chicken broth in 1/2-cup increments, waiting until liquid is absorbed before adding more liquid, and adding as much more liquid as necessary until rice is tender but al dente, about 25 to 30 minutes, stirring constantly. Season to taste with salt. Add almost all of cheese, mixing lightly but well. Garnish with remaining cheese. Makes 6 servings.

TOMMASI’S RISOTTO WITH SAFFRON, LOBSTER AND ASPARAGUS

2 live Main lobsters or Rock lobster tails

4 tablespoons butter

2 teaspoons finely chopped onion

8 ounces arborio (short-grain Italian rice)

20 asparagus tips, optional

Dash saffron threads

Salt, pepper

Cut off tails from lobsters and cook heads in boiling water to produce 2 cups lobster broth. Or, if using Rock lobster tails, cook shells to produce broth.

Melt 2 teaspoons butter in large skillet. Saute onion in butter until golden. Add rice and cook, stirring 1 minute. Add asparagus tips, saffron and 1 cup lobster broth. Stir continuously until broth is reduced.

Remove meat from lobster tails, reserving shell for decoration. Cut lobster meat in pieces and add to skillet. Continue to add broth in 1/2-cup increments, waiting until liquid is absorbed before adding more liquid, until rice is tender, about 20 minutes longer, stirring constantly. If broth is used up, add boiling water to finish cooking rice until soft, but al dente. Add remaining butter to rice to smooth out consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Decorate rice with cooked lobster shells, head and tails. Serve at once. Makes 4 servings.