Singh’s Sauces Make for Sumptuous Dishes at India’s Grill

Jasbir Singh once owned the Tandoori Oven Indian restaurant in Canoga Park. Now he is operating India’s Grill in Los Angeles, near the Beverly Center. Yet Singh’s strong suit seems to be not grilled foods but the intricate sauces of Moghul cuisine.

The tandoori chicken he produces is good, not outstanding. But it turns sumptuous when added to a rich sauce of cream, butter, tomato, curry gravy and a dash of the yogurt mixture in which the bird was marinated. The name of this dish is chicken makhni . Eliminate the yogurt and it becomes chicken tikka masala , one of the most popular dishes at the restaurant.

Similarly, leathery tandoori shrimp are disappointing, but shrimp matar korma --with an ornate sauce of coconut, cream and tomato sauce blended with almonds and walnuts--is terrific.

And while boti kebab is overwhelming--the chunks of grilled lamb too large, too dry and daubed a garish pink--lamb vindalu , a combination of meat and potatoes imbued with vinegar, makes a pleasant counterpoint to the richness of other dishes.

Combining several of the lavishly sauced dishes in one meal can result in tasting none of them. I made this mistake one night, but took the remnants home and retried them one at a time. It was then that I appreciated how expertly the seasonings were blended in bengan bhartha , an eggplant dish so light and fluffy that it is almost unrecognizable as eggplant. And I could get the full flavor of saag (spiced spinach) with its sharp notes of fresh ginger.

Basic chicken curry may sound dull in comparison, but the flavor is good, straightforward and clean.

India’s Grill serves only lamb, chicken and shrimp, no beef or pork. There are plenty of dishes for vegetarians, including vegetable rice, which blends basmati rice with a sample of almost every vegetable in the pantry.

Singh does a fine job with tandoori breads--garlic naan , onion-flavored kulcha and so forth. And the peppery pappadums served as an appetizer will set your mouth tingling.

Dessert is an afterthought in most Indian restaurants, but Singh makes an impressive kulfi (Indian-style ice cream). He patiently boils down half-and-half until it takes on the deep, full flavor of condensed milk, then adds sugar and nuts or raisins and freezes the mixture in little discs. The result is ice cream that is naturally flavored and surpassingly smooth, although very different in texture from American ice cream.

The gritty kulfi that one gets in some restaurants occurs because the cream base has not been properly boiled, leaving water that turns to ice crystals when frozen, Singh said. A necessity here is a beverage that will cut through the richness of the sauces. At present, only tea, coffee, soft drinks and yogurt-based lassi are available. Singh has applied for but not received a license for beer and wine.

Prices are reasonable and servings are good-sized. Chicken makhni , chicken tikka masala and lamb vindalu are each $4.75; saag combined with cubes of Indian-style cheese ( paneer ) is $4.50. Lunch combinations are $3.95 and $4.95. And for $9.95, one can have an incredibly large dinner: a piece of tandoori chicken, a ground lamb kebab, lamb or chicken curry, daal makhni (lentils), vegetable rice, navratan korma (mixed vegetables), peas with paneer , naan and raita (yogurt-cucumber relish) or salad.

Singh, who is from Chak Dana, a village near Jullundur in the Punjab, occasionally emerges from the kitchen and chats with customers. Soft Indian music and sparkly cloth paintings from the Punjab help to create the right mood.

India’s Grill, 428 S. San Vicente Blvd., Los Angeles. (213) 659-3903. Open daily from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. No credit cards. Parking available.