In Israel, Beware of Guides You Don’t Ask For

I was wandering through the tangled streets of Old Jerusalem during my first visit to Israel when a young man began commenting on the city’s popular tourist sites. Afterward, he held out his hand, demanding a fee for his service as my “guide.”

We argued and the situation quickly escalated into a scene that was so disturbing I paid rather than quarrel. I know other travelers who have suffered similar experiences. It’s the type of situation that can be especially frustrating to young visitors on tight budgets, which is a good reason to invest in a top-rated guidebook, such as the new edition of “Israel--A Travel Survival Kit,” by Neil Tilbury ($13.95). The book offers a list of free programs to aid visitors, including guided tours offered by the Municipal Tourist Office, the Sheraton Jerusalem Plaza Hotel and the King Solomon Hotel.

During the past year Israel’s Youth Hostel Assn. has introduced guest-house facilities at seven of its hostels. Now a total of 10 youth hostels can provide groups and individuals with two- to four-bed rooms at slightly higher rates than their larger hostel dormitory rooms. The group rate for bed and breakfast is $12 to $14 U.S. per person a night.

Guest houses are available now at the four hostels in Jerusalem, the two in Naharia and those in Tel Aviv, Beersheba, Mitspeh Ramon and Eliat.

If you are traveling in Israel independently, it’s possible to arrange a seven-night package at Eilat’s newly renovated youth hostel after you arrive in the country.

For $220 U.S. you can have seven nights’ accommodations, breakfasts and dinners, a Jeep Safari Tour with lunch, a Red Sea Cruise with lunch and a ticket to visit some popular attractions, including an underwater observatory.

A 12-day extended version of this package is available for $280 U.S. It includes bus transportation from Tel Aviv, a night at the Tel Aviv hostel, bus transportation to Jerusalem and two nights at the hostel, plus breakfasts and dinners.

For details, contact the Youth Travel Bureau, Israel Youth Hostels Assn., 3 Dorot Rishonim St., Jerusalem 94625.

The Israeli YHA Youth Travel Bureau offers a variety of do-it-yourself tour programs for budget travelers, ranging from nature tours to hostel/rental car packages. The most popular program is a 12-day Israel and Egypt package for $370 U.S. Because of demand, starting in 1990 there will be weekly departures every Wednesday from the Tel Aviv Youth Hostel.

Transportation is by public bus, and accommodations are in budget hotels in Egypt and hostels in Israel. Three days of the Israel portion of the program include the service of an English-speaking guide. Sites visited include Masada, the Dead Sea and the Monastery of St. George.

The Tel Aviv Youth Hostel, at 32 Bnei Dan St., is open 24 hours. You can reach it from the central bus station by taking bus No. 5, or from the north railway station, bus No. 27.

A good place to compare budget tours while in Israel is at an office of ISSTA, Israel’s student travel service. ISSTA has offices in Haifa, Jerusalem and Beersheba, and at 109 Ben Yehuda St., Tel Aviv.

ISSTA offers students reduced rates on ferry, bus and rail travel. It also offers a range of tours in Israel and Egypt, including diving in Eilat and a Negev Desert safari. Some services are also available to non-students.