Cruising La Cienega : <i> Restaurant Row: The Next Generation.</i>

Ed Debevic’s, 134 N. La Cienega Blvd. (213) 659-1952. Style: ‘50’s diner done to the max. Setting: Neon, chrome and Formica. Recommended dishes: Burger and fries; meat loaf and mashed potatoes. Cost per person: $8-$12.

King Dragon, 170 N. La Cienega Blvd. (213) 652-4187. Style: ‘50s Cantonese chow updated for the ‘90s. Setting: Pink leatherette booths; huge neon dragon. Recommended dishes: Shrimp fried rice; moo goo gai pan ; sweet and sour pork. Cost per person: $10-$35.

Manhattan West, 826 N. La Cienega Blvd. (213) 652-8800. Style: California for non-foodies. Setting: Pseudo-Soho. Recommended dishes: Seafood pasta; tuna with spaghetti; white chocolate cheesecake. Cost per person: $18-$35.

Matsuhisa, 129 N. La Cienega Blvd. (213) 659-9639. Style: Japanese seafood for foodies. Setting: Small storefront. Recommended dishes: “Pasta” made out of squid with asparagus sauce; sashimi of pompano; three-color somen. Cost per person : $25-$40.

Pazzia, 755 N. La Cienega Blvd. (213) 657-9271. Style: A fine madness by the man who opened Rex. Setting: Designer gorgeous. Recommended dishes: Pappa al pomodoro; yellow pepper soup; ravioli with lentils and pine nuts. Cost per person: $25-$40.