Thawing Out : Although a December freeze devastated the citrus harvest in two states, these popular fruits remain in good supply in the Southland.

Experts are still assessing the effect on citrus fruit of the Dec. 24-25, 1989, freeze in Texas and Florida, but produce buyers of major Southern California supermarket chains say citrus shipments from Texas have ceased and significantly less fruit is arriving from Florida. On the bright side, California is reporting one of the largest navel orange crops in years, desert grapefruit harvesting is steady, but will gain momentum in the months ahead, and lemons are in good supply.

Although nearly 30% of Florida’s orange crop was destroyed, much of this fruit is used for processing into commercial juice, so the effect on fresh orange supplies is smaller than might be expected. A spokesperson for Sunkist Growers said the large navel crop would provide plenty of fresh oranges.

Navel oranges may be used for juice, but it’s recommended that they be squeezed by the glass. Juice from navel oranges tends to become bitter if squeezed and allowed to sit for a prolonged period, even in the refrigerator.

Texas grapefruit supplies from storage are about exhausted, but Florida is still shipping some of this fruit. The desert grapefruit crop from California and Arizona is expected to be 6% above last season.

Mandarin supplies are down, both from out-of-state and here in California. The freeze impact on lemons is minimal since most of this fruit is raised in California and Arizona. The same is true for pummelos, an ancient fruit that is currently gaining recognition, limes and kumquats.

Prices will undoubtedly reflect the supplies available for each type of citrus, but shoppers should still be able to find some good buys. Here’s some background information on the different types of citrus.

PUMMELOS are the largest member of the citrus family. Sometimes called Chinese grapefruit since they originated in Asia centuries ago, until recently this fruit has been available mainly in Asian markets.

Domestic production has increased enough, however, that pummelos can now be marketed as a specialty fruit. They range from slightly larger to twice the size of a grapefruit with thicker, smooth, greenish to yellow skin. Some are round, others pear-shaped.

The fruit’s flesh varies from white to deep pink and is sweeter and less juicy than a grapefruit. Pummelos with pink flesh are almost seedless; those with white flesh have numerous seeds.

To peel a pummelo, slice off one end of the fruit deep enough to expose the flesh. Score the rind lengthwise in several places, then pull the peel away using a downward motion.

Break the pummelo apart from the center as you would an orange. Cut the inner white portion of the membrane away and remove the outer membrane with your hand or a knife.

Once peeled, it’s easy to see the membranes that divide the fruit sections. Working over a bowl, remove the sections by cutting downward alongside each membrane to the center of the fruit.

Repeat, cutting down the other side of the section, very close to the membrane. It may be necessary to turn the knife blade sideways several times to loosen the section at the center. Allow the section to fall into the bowl. Discard any seeds. Continue to lift the fruit section by section until all have been removed.

Store pummelos in the refrigerator. Use in salads or combined with other fruit.

GRAPEFRUIT is grown year around in California and Arizona. White and ruby varieties are harvested from the desert areas from November through June or early July. Southern and Central California groves produce both types of this fruit from June through October.

Florida and Texas raise grapefruit between September and June. Both white and ruby fleshed fruit is raised in Florida. Texas raises primarily Ruby Red and Star Ruby grapefruit.

White grapefruit has honey-colored flesh and bright yellow skin. Ruby varieties have pink to ruby flesh and yellow skin with a ruby blush. Although some people believe ruby varieties are sweeter, experts claim the flavor and juiciness are the same.

Choose grapefruit that is firm and smoothly textured, with a well-rounded shape that is slightly flattened. Heaviness is a good indication of juice content.

Grapefruit will keep at room temperature for several days. For longer storage, refrigerate in a plastic bag.

ORANGES also are grown in California and Arizona throughout the year. Seedless navels are available November through May. Valencias, preferred for juice, are harvested late April through October.

Florida oranges, harvested February through June, have thinner skins and are very juicy. Due to soil and climate differences between California and Florida, even oranges of the same variety will vary in color and texture.

As in the case of grapefruit, weight is a good indication of an orange’s juice content. In addition to out-of-hand eating, oranges may be used in recipes for salads, entrees and desserts.

Oranges may be kept at room temperature one to two weeks. For longer storage, place in a plastic bag in the hydrator drawer of the refrigerator.

BLOOD ORANGES, grown for centuries in Italy, Spain, Algeria, Morocco and Tunisia, are now being grown in California and Arizona. Several varieties are being produced with varying degrees of color intensity.

The Moro has deep maroon flesh and an orange exterior with a red blush. The color intensity of the Tarocco is less reliable and may vary depending on the growing region. Flesh of the Sanguinelli is streaked with red at maturity.

The flavor of blood oranges is described as a rich orange taste with overtones of raspberries or strawberries. The fruit is relatively easy to peel and has few to no seeds.

Use blood oranges as a garnish for entrees, in salads, tarts or sorbets. They also make a good addition to fruit compotes. Store as you would regular oranges.

MANDARINS are the most diverse group of citrus--encompassing all the easy-to-peel fruits: tangerines, tangelos and tangors.

Tangerine varieties include Dancy, Robinson, Clementine, Algerian, Kinnow, Fairchild, Kara and Satsuma. Honey tangerines are firm, juicy and, unlike the others, difficult to peel. The Rangpur lime, which is actually not a lime at all, is another member of this family.

Tangelos, a cross between a tangerine and grapefruit, have a tart-sweet flavor. Minneolas are recognized by their knob-like formation at the stem end and deep orange color. Orlandos are slightly flat, somewhat lighter in color and contain more seeds. Other varieties include Nova, Early K and Sampson.

Tangors are a cross between a tangerine and orange. The Temple or Royal Mandarin varieties tend to be red-orange in color and similar to an orange in flavor.

A puffy appearance and feel is normal for many varieties of mandarins. Fruit should still be heavy for its size, indicating good juice content.

The segments of these fruit separate easily and make them ideal for out-of-hand eating. They may also be used in fruit compotes, salads and sauces.

Mandarins may be held at room temperature up to a week or placed in a plastic bag in the hydrator drawer of the refrigerator.

LEMONS may be too tart for out-of-hand eating, but they’re probably the most versatile of all the citrus fruits. Their zesty flavor brings out the best in other foods. Lemon peel and juice have the ability to sharpen sweetness, perk up blandness and enliven otherwise pallid foods.

Lemons are also useful in flavoring lower-calorie and lower-sodium recipes. Lemons make an excellent substitute for the oil in salad dressings, accent sauces and soups and replace salt as a seasoning.

When poaching fish, take advantage of the acidity of lemon juice not only to flavor the cooking liquid but to keep the seafood white in color. Cut fruits and vegetables are often rubbed with lemon juice or dipped in lemon-water to inhibit them from discoloring.

Select medium-size lemons with thin, smooth skins that feel firm and heavy for their size. Avoid large lemons, which typically have thicker, less desirable skin, and any bruised, bumpy, wrinkled fruit that may be old or was improperly handled.

Lemons may be stored at room temperature for seven to 10 days. Placed in a plastic bag that is only loosely closed, they will keep in the refrigerator nearly two months.

One medium lemon yields two to three tablespoons juice and three teaspoons grated zest.

Sweet LIMES are grown in other parts of the world, but only acid limes are raised in this country. There are two types of acid limes: Tahiti and Mexican. The Tahiti type includes Persian, Bearss, Idemore and Pond varieties.

The Mexican grouping encompasses the Key lime of Florida, called Mexican in the Southwest, Dominican when imported from the Dominican Republic, or West Indian when imported from any of the West Indies. These have light lemon-yellow colored skins, are round to oval in shape and small in size.

Store limes in a plastic bag in the hydrator drawer of the refrigerator. One medium lime yields two tablespoons of juice and two tablespoons of grated zest.

KUMQUATS, native to China, are eaten whole, skin and all. The skin of this football-shaped fruit is sweet and perfume-y, the flesh is tart. Two varieties are sold in U.S. markets: Nagami and the smaller, milder Meiwa.

Choose firm, bright orange kumquats. Avoid those with green skins. Use as a garnish or for making preserves, jelly or candied fruit.

LIMEQUATS are a kumquat hybrid. The small green citrus taste similar to limes and may be used in much the same way.

RELATED STORY: Page H18: The right kitchen tools make it easy to work with lemons and other citrus fruit.

PORK WITH MUSTARD-ORANGE SAUCE

1 pound boneless pork sirloin chops

Salt, pepper

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 cup chicken broth

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh sage

1 tablespoon orange zest

1 orange, peeled and thinly sliced

Sprinkle pork chops with salt and pepper to taste. Divide garlic between chops, rubbing into meat. Saute chops in olive oil, turning once, until browned on both sides. Remove and set aside.

Add broth to skillet, stirring to loosen any browned bits from bottom of pan. Whisk in mustard, sage and orange zest.

Return chops to skillet. Bring to boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer until chops are tender, about 10 minutes.

Remove cover and continue cooking until until sauce thickens, about 10 minutes more. Add orange slices about 5 minutes before end of cooking time. Serve chops topped with orange slices and sauce. Makes 4 to 5 servings.

MARINATED SEAFOOD SALAD

1/2 pound cooked shrimp

1/2 pound cooked lobster, cut into pieces

1/2 pound cooked crab

Lemon Vinaigrette

2 Roma tomatoes, chopped

1/2 cup chopped Maui onion

6 cups mixed salad greens

1/2 cup toasted pine nuts

Lemon wedges

Combine shrimp, lobster and crab in large bowl. Pour Lemon Vinaigrette over and toss. Marinate several hours or overnight.

Remove marinated seafood from refrigerator and warm slightly. Stir in tomatoes and onion. Add salad greens and pine nuts and toss gently. Serve with lemon wedges. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Lemon Vinaigrette

1 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/3 cup lemon juice

1 teaspoon lemon zest

1 clove garlic, minced

1 tablespoon chopped fresh marjoram

1 tablespoon chopped fresh chives

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons capers

1/8 teaspoon white pepper

Salt

Whisk together oil and lemon juice in 2 cup measure. Whisk in lemon zest, garlic, marjoram, chives, mustard, capers, white pepper and season to taste with salt. Makes about 1 1/3 cups.

WINTER PUMMELO TOSS

1/2 cup olive oil

1/3 cup balsamic vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon dried dill weed

1/2 teaspoon onion salt

1 pummelo

6 cups torn spinach leaves

6 cups torn butter lettuce

1 red onion, thinly sliced

1 avocado, sliced

1 (2.2-ounce) can sliced black olives

Combine olive oil, vinegar, sugar, dill and onion salt in container with tight-fitting lid. Shake well to combine. Set aside.

Peel and section pummelo. Set sections aside.

Combine spinach, lettuce, onion, avocado, olives and pummelo sections in large salad bowl. Shake dressing again and pour over salad. Toss to combine. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

MIKE’S LEMON CHICKEN ADOBO WITH SPINACH

1 1/2 to 2 pounds chicken thighs

3 tablespoons soy sauce

1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic

1 small bay leaf

Freshly ground pepper

5 tablespoons lemon juice

1 bunch spinach leaves, washed and drained well

Lemon zest

Place chicken thighs in 1 layer, skin side down, in medium to large saucepan. Cover and cook over medium heat 10 minutes. Add soy sauce, garlic, bay leaf and pepper. Cover and simmer 35 to 45 minutes or until chicken is tender, stirring occasionally. (Chicken will “fry” in its own skin fat.)

Mix in 1/4 cup lemon juice. Cook 5 minutes longer. Remove chicken from pan.

Add spinach leaves to remaining fat and cook just to wilt (do not overcook). Mix in remaining 1 tablespoon lemon juice. Place spinach leaves on platter and top with chicken. Garnish with lemon zest. Makes 4 servings.

TANGERINE BUTTER SAUCE FOR VEGETABLES

1/4 cup butter or margarine

1 tablespoon toasted sesame seeds

1 tablespoon chopped green onion

Grated zest of 1/2 tangerine

1/4 teaspoon dried dill weed

1 tangerine, peeled, segmented and seeded

Cooked cauliflower, cabbage or zucchini

Melt butter in small saucepan with sesame seeds, green onion, tangerine zest and dill. Add tangerine segments and heat through. Serve over cauliflower, cabbage or zucchini. Makes 2/3 cup sauce.

HOT BUTTERED LEMONADE

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1/2 cup lemon juice

3 cups water

1/2 cup sugar

1/4 cup light rum, optional

1 tablespoon butter or margarine

Combine lemon zest, juice, water, sugar, rum and butter in saucepan. Heat. Makes about 1 quart or 5 (6-ounce) servings.

GRAPEFRUIT-RAISIN COFFEE CAKE

1 grapefruit

2 cups biscuit mix

1/2 cup raisins

1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons sugar

1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon melted butter or margarine

1/3 cup milk

1 egg, lightly beaten

1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Peel and section grapefruit over bowl, reserving sections and 1/4 cup juice. Combine biscuit mix, raisins and 1/3 cup sugar in large bowl. Add 1/3 cup melted butter, milk, egg and reserved grapefruit juice. Mix just until blended.

Spoon into lightly greased 8-inch square baking pan. Arrange grapefruit sections on top. Drizzle with remaining 1 tablespoon melted butter.

Combine remaining 2 tablespoons sugar with cinnamon and sprinkle over cake. Bake at 400 degrees 30 minutes or until wood pick inserted in center comes out clean. Serve warm. Makes 8 servings.

LEMON FLUFF

1 (3-ounce) package lemon-flavor gelatin

1 cup boiling water

3/4 cup sugar

1 cup cold water

Juice and grated zest of 1 lemon

Few drops yellow food color

1 (12-ounce) can evaporated milk, chilled

2 1/2 cups vanilla wafer crumbs

Dissolve lemon gelatin in boiling water. Add sugar and stir until dissolved. Add cold water, lemon juice and zest and yellow food color. Refrigerate until mixture becomes syrupy.

Whip evaporated milk in chilled bowl with chilled beaters until stiff. Fold into gelatin mixture.

Line bottom of 13x9-inch baking pan with 1 1/2 cups vanilla wafer crumbs. Carefully spoon gelatin mixture over crumbs. Smooth top, then sprinkle with remaining 1 cup vanilla wafer crumbs.

Chill until firm, at least 3 hours. Cut into squares for serving. Makes 12 servings.

Los Angeles Times Food Styling by Minnie Bernardino and Donna Deane