Happy Landings in the Fiji Islands

Through the small window of one of the bright yellow commuter planes that fly between the Fijian islands, we watched the sun spotlight a large fish suspended in the crystalline water below.

More scenes followed in quick succession as we lost altitude before landing: small mangrove islands, then reefs with lacy fringes of white foam, next placid lagoons, and finally thatch-roofed huts scattered on green hillsides.

Fiji, a cluster of dots on the map about 1,000 miles north of New Zealand, is made up of 240 islands, including the two largest, Vanua Levu and Viti Levu.

The islands seem magical--lush peaks reaching into wispy clouds, thick stands of coconut palms, shorelines edged with white beaches that are lapped by some of the most seductive blue water in the world.

This is where sailing, snorkeling, diving, beachcombing, sun worshiping, bird watching, horseback riding, bush hiking and just plain relaxing is an excellent way to spend a low-key vacation.

Our destination was Vanua Levu, the second-largest island, and the pilot gently set the plane down on a grassy airstrip cut from the jungle. A bench under a broad mango tree serves as the official waiting room.

We were met by a tall New Zealander who offered a cheery, “Bula! Welcome to Vanua Levu, mate.” This was Curly, an emissary of Vanua Levu. “Bula” is the traditional “Hi, how are you?” in Fijian.

We climbed into a Jeep and headed for Namale Plantation not far from the village of Savusavu. Ten thatch-roofed cottages called bures (boo-rays) offer comfortable beds and fresh flowers everywhere.

Namale is a working copra (dried coconut meat) plantation. It began operating in 1867 when the high chief of this part of Vanua Levu, Tui na Savusavu, traded with the British--10 muskets for 125 acres.

In today’s economy, however, tourism is more financially rewarding than the copra, so house guests are welcome.

Tropical humidity is tempered by gentle trade winds carrying the mingled fragrances of orchids, bougainvillea and frangipani. Fruit trees are everywhere, as are small, colorful parakeets. At dusk, flying foxes (fruit bats) glide in to raid the pawpaw (papaya) trees.

When the tide is out, the nearby reef is ready for exploration. Small pools come to life after you sprinkle them with a few cracker crumbs. A miniature world emerges of coral formations, sea urchins, limpets, wispy grasses and tiny fish, each with their own surprises.

The unwritten code is not to remove anything from the tide pools.

In Fijian villages everyone, it seems, is related by blood or marriage to a chief of ancient lineage. Even in modern Fiji the chiefs are greatly respected and their wishes are followed.

Visitors to Fiji must have a valid passport. When stamped upon entry it will be good for 30 days. Major credit cards are accepted at most hotels, restaurants and shops.

The government center and capital of Fiji is Suva, which is worth a visit.

Qantas Airlines flies three days a week from Los Angeles to Nadi International Airport. Call toll-free (800) 227-4500. Air New Zealand also flies out of Los Angeles three times a week. Call (800) 262-1234.

Once in Fiji, inter-island flights are available on Fiji Air and Sunflower Air.

Some guest houses on the outer islands may not be available through travel agents. If not, write to:

Namale Plantation, P.O.Box 244, Savusavu, Vanua Levu, Fiji, about $115 U.S. double; Qamea Beach Club, P.O. Taveuni, Qamea, about $150 double, and Paddy Doyles Crow’s Nest, P.O. Box 270, Sigatoka, Viti Levu, about $70. (Add 10% tax to all hotel rates.)

All serve excellent food, which is not included in the cost of rooms.

For food in Viti Levu, try Poon’s on Nadi’s main street. A Chinese dinner is about $7 U.S. For Indian curry, visit the Curry Corner just off Nadi’s main road. The Crow’s Nest restaurant serves good food amid a colorful collection of seagoing paraphernalia, including old brass diving gear.

For more information on travel to Fiji, contact the Fiji Visitors Bureau, 6151 W. Century Blvd., Los Angeles 90045, (213) 568-1616.