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Home Improvement : Avoid Large Bill: Redo Shower Pan Yourself

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<i> Abrams is a Los Angeles general contractor and a free-lance writer</i>

One of the most common repair problems in homes more than 15 years old is leakage from a stall shower that results from cracks between the tiles or defects in the waterproof material built up under the base tiles of the shower, commonly called the “shower pan.”

Most homeowners find themselves facing a repair bill for replacing the shower pan of at least $750, and often much more if wall tiles need replacement as well.

If you have been told that you need a shower pan or suspect you have a leak, you may be able to fix it yourself in less than an hour, even if you are all thumbs. Follow these simple steps:

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Start by cleaning the shower with a scouring pad so that it is absolutely spotless. Any soap residue or mildew stains must be removed completely. Let it dry thoroughly for 36 hours.

From any paint or hardware store, buy a cartridge of clear silicone sealant. Use G.E. Silicone II (which is almost odorless), Red Devil, Elmers, Dap or Dow Corning. Also, buy a caulking gun for about $2.

Read and follow the basic safety instructions on the product, then insert the cartridge into the gun and cut the tip of the cartridge nozzle about three-eighth of an inch from the point. Insert a long nail into the hole to puncture the inner seal.

Place the tip of the cartridge where the floor and wall tiles join at a grout line. Gently squeeze the activator of the gun to force the silicone sealant from the tip at a steady rate while moving the gun slowly across the grout joint.

Continue applying a line of silicone about one-quarter-inch wide around the entire base of the shower. Smooth the material into the grout with your index finger, making sure there are no uneven or rough spots and that the grout is completely covered. Wipe the material off your finger with a rag.

Repeat this procedure at every other grout joint in the shower where tile surfaces join at an angle. Also, seal around the plumbing fixtures, soap holder and at the tile-enclosure joint.

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Now comes the key to successfully sealing the shower against leakage. Across every grout line between the tiles themselves on the base of the shower and up the walls about 30 inches, apply a thin coat of silicone sealant. Again, smooth the material with a finger so that coverage is complete, and that’s it!

Let the shower dry overnight before using it. Monitor the success of your work by carefully observing plaster damage on walls near the shower for dampness or further deterioration.

Sometimes a point of reference on the damaged plaster is helpful. Draw a pencil line around the damaged area so you can tell if any new problems develop outside the original line. Continue checking the plaster for three to four weeks.

If water damage or moisture has been found under the house below the shower, have the sub-area reinspected after one month of regular use of the shower.

If no further wall damage is seen, and if the sub-area of the house below the shower is dry, you can presume that your efforts have paid off. If, however, some moisture is still present or damage to the walls is continuing, don’t give up yet.

It is possible that tile is leaking at a point higher on the wall than 30 inches, and you should seal the remaining wall tiles up to 60 inches around the shower.

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When this process is successful, as it is most of the time, it saves a big expense and major inconvenience.

Remember, though, that because of normal wear and shifting and settling of all wood frame structures, new cracks may appear in the tile or grout and the silicone may have to be touched up. As a rule, it should be inspected every other month.

Prolong the life of the silicone sealant, though, by using only mild, abrasive-free cleaning products in the shower.

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