RESTAURANT REVIEW : How Corn Muffins Crumble at Ma Mattie’s Southern Cookin’

In Oxnard, “The Stroll” is not a dance from the ‘60s.

It’s a portion of the Ormond Beach neighborhood that at one time had a rep as being a home for strolling ladies of the night and certain related activities.

But walk down The Stroll these days, and you’ll instantly know that things have changed. I, for one, safely ventured there in search of Ma Mattie’s Southern Cookin’.

When the corn muffin didn’t crumble in my hand before I could get it to my mouth, I figured that the trip had already been worth it.

After looking at the menu, and even before the muffin, I walked outside to take a close look at the restaurant’s sign. This was no barbecue joint--although ribs are on the menu. And it wasn’t Cajun--even though the gumbo was as good as any I’ve had in a while. It was exactly what the sign said: “Southern Home Cooked Food.”

A handwritten note on the wall, from an obviously satisfied customer, read: “I’m from Texas, and your cooking sure reminds me of Dallas and Lake Charles, La. . . .” That’s what I might have said after a meal or two at Ma’s, and I’m not from Texas. But in Lake Charles, Harold and Mattie Lockett’s grandkids might not be running all over the place. You can tell they’re the grandchildren because they’re not eating. Any other kids in the place, it seems to me, would be eating.

Before you order, this “down home” menu needs some study. There’s a meat loaf, covered with brown onion gravy. Or fried chicken crisp enough to make you think you’re at a Pioneer Chicken store, but without a lot of the grease.

Ma’s collard greens, and red beans, among several of the traditional side dishes, are Southern-good. Biscuits are soft and heavy, made on the premises. With the gravy they’re probably as good as you’ll find on this edge of the Mason-Dixon Line. I’ve got to admit that I’ve never been in an adventurous enough mood to try the pigs’ feet. Next time, maybe. Nor have I sampled Ma’s Sunday special, the chitterlings.

And with some of that spicy food, like the chicken and sausage jambalaya, I wish they served beer.

Ma’s desserts, however, are as good as they look. (Your eyes are drawn to them as soon as you walk in.) “We make ‘em here,” says Lulu, Ma’s daughter. I can never pass up a chance to try a chocolate cake--any chocolate cake. This is a good, heavy German one. And there’s sweet potato pie of course. But those are small potatoes compared to the peach cobbler and the bread pudding. I carried a three-day supply of each of these out the door with me in a bag.

These are desserts, Lulu says, which were popular at old-time Baptist Church Sunday dinners.

Ma Mattie’s may not be the place for a barbecue purist, or a Cajun aficionado, but for a lover of pure, traditional Southern cooking, it’s worth a drive to “The Stroll.”

MA MATTIE’S

Ma Mattie’s Southern Cookin’, 601 W. Hueneme Road, Oxnard. (805) 986-3827. Open Tuesday through Sunday 9:30 a.m. to 8 p.m. (Friday and Saturday until 9 p.m.). No alcohol. Reservations not necessary. No credit cards. Dinner for two, food only, $16-$20.