Stars Fail to Turn the Heads of Some Readers
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“California cuisine is very good; but much as we hate to admit it, the three-star food of France is better,” declares the subheading of Reichl’s article. Oh. come on!
Stew of duck innards? Licorice ice cream? A waiter who urges, “Eat the lard”? And a six-month wait to get a reservation for the privilege of spending anywhere from $100 to $300 per person?
Come back to California, or to Earth, for that matter, Ruth Reichl. The emperor has no clothes.
DAVE HENDERSON
Huntington Beach
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