RESTAURANT REVIEW MEXICAN : Casa de Sevilla’s Friends Still Call it Pete’s Place

If it’s a restaurant with a name such as Casa de Sevilla, it’s got to be Mexican or Spanish. Right?

Especially if it’s in a less-than-distinctive neighborhood . . . across the street from the Salvation Army.

But as anyone who’s spent any time in Santa Barbara knows, Casa de Sevilla is no run-of-the-mill Mexican restaurant.

It is the longtime home of the Old Guard where steaks and chops and seafood make up the house cuisine. And it may be the only place on the South Coast where there is an “A” room: the red one to the right. (The small, added-on porch areas, with tables by the fireplace, are actually the most intimate tables.) It’s also the kind of restaurant in which you almost always overhear the phrase, “My Dad used to take me here when I was a kid.”

Walking into Casa de Sevilla, you find yourself in the midst of a bunch of dressy blue blazers. These are people from affluent places such as Montecito, Hope Ranch and Ojai who’ve been coming here for 50 years. And leaning against the bar might be Howard Duff or John Ireland or other members of the local movie contingent.

But the blue blazers haven’t really come to the Casa de Sevilla. They’ve come to Pete’s. Although Pete hasn’t owned the place for 33 years, it’s still Pete’s to many of its customers. Butch and Birgitta have owned it for the last 27 years.

Is it too soon to begin calling it Butch’s?

Not much has changed over the years in decor or menu. The prices, of course, have kept up with the times. And recently, the bullfight posters that have always been on the walls were restored.

It is true that the most popular appetizer, the chile con queso , is Mexican--almost a chile relleno , but not quite (the pepper seeds are removed). Gazpacho and ceviche are also among the appetizers, and you can order enchiladas or poached chicken in Spanish sauce. Stick to these dishes and you’ll eat well for about $12 to $15 a person.

For spareribs or a veal chop, you’ll pay more--about $22 and $23. But the meat is barbecued to order, very simply, and the choice pork back ribs are done in a light, distinctive sauce.

More than meat, however, the restaurant quite properly puts its main emphasis on seafood. There is probably no place on the South Coast where I’ve found better fish. Or, for that matter, fish as well-prepared.

The abalone, which in these days of shellfish inflation can completely distort one’s bill, is lightly breaded and sauteed. It’s $30 and enormously popular, which is interesting, since it costs nearly double most of the other seafood entrees.

Fresh fish is grilled very simply--and it’s not overcooked. Portions are generous, but you never know whether the catch will be thick or thin. Butch says it all depends on how the fish are coming in. You may get an inch-thick swordfish ($16) or a soft, flaky barbecued salmon ($15). A vegetable and a salad are included (but don’t get excited about the salad).

Perhaps the longevity of the waitresses (no serving men in these rooms) is an indication of how good the service is. Leona, for instance, has been at the restaurant 14 years.

But Helen, who retired several years ago, had been around for 56 years!

This is one of the last Bastions of Empire and it still does a fine job.

Casa de Sevilla, 428 Chapala St., Santa Barbara. (805) 966-4370. Open Tuesday through Saturday for lunch noon to 2 p.m.; dinner 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Full bar, reservations accepted. Major credit cards accepted. Dinner for two, food only, $32-$50.