Cowabunga! : <i> When the need for seafood strikes.</i>

Angeli Mare, Marina Marketplace, 13455 Maxella Ave., Marina del Rey. (213) 822-1984. Style: Latest branch of Angeli, specializing in seafood. Setting: Symbolic surf. Recommended dishes: Cacciucco (fish soup); roast monkfish; grilled tuna. Cost per person: $12-$25.

Chez Melange, 1716 Pacific Coast Highway, Redondo Beach. (213) 540-1222. Style: Spago of the South Bay. Setting: Elegant motel. Recommended dishes: Menu changes daily but might include seafood gumbo, spicy fried oysters. Cost per person: $20-$35.

Riva, at Loews Santa Monica Beach Hotel, 1700 Ocean Ave., Santa Monica. (213) 458-6700. Style: Italian seafood with a view. Setting: Hotel pretty. Recommended dishes: Fried calamari ; grilled tuna; Cost per person: $20-$50.

Shangri-La Chinese Seafood Restaurant, 313 S. Boylston St., Los Angeles. (213) 250-2288. Style: Downtown outpost for Hong Kong-style seafood. Setting: Lots of neon and heavy dim-sum cart traffic. Recommended dishes: Skewered shrimp; braised oysters; steamed whole tilapia. Cost per person: $8-$20.

Via Mare Seafood Restaurant, 3377 Wilshire Blvd., 2nd Floor of New Derby Plaza, Los Angeles. (213) 480-1223. Style: Los Angeles branch of Manila-based seafood restaurant. Setting: Old Brown Derby hat now perched on top of this mini-mall structure. Recommended dishes: kilawen (scallop ceviche); crab delice (sort of a seafood baked Alaska).