The Art of Making Pesto : Pestle or Processor: Fine Basil Pesto

Although fresh-cut basil is available in supermarket produce sections year-round, during the summer months this herb is also a popular plant in home gardens. Sweet basil planted in April or May has grown enough by now to yield leaves for making pesto, the classic Italian sauce. When harvesting basil, rather than cutting whole clusters, pinch off just the larger leaves and allow the smaller ones to continue to grow.

Purists prepare pesto with a mortar and pestle, pounding and grinding the ingredients into a paste. Chop the basil (Step 1) and place in the mortar. The garlic may be added whole or minced, along with the pine nuts and grated Parmesan cheese (Step 2).

Using the pestle, mix and pound the ingredients (Step 3) until thoroughly combined and almost smooth. Gradually add the olive oil (Step 4), mixing until the sauce is about the consistency of creamed butter (Step 5). Season to taste with salt.

Quality pesto may also be prepared with a food processor--the trick being not to overprocess the ingredients. Instead of being a creamy, homogenized sauce, the finished pesto should have a somewhat gritty texture.

Place the cheeses in the processor bowl fitted with the metal blade and process until well grated. Remove and set aside.

With the motor running, drop the garlic through the feed tube (Step 6) and process until minced. Remove the cover and push the garlic down into the bowl with a rubber spatula (Step 7). Add the pine nuts (Step 8) and salt and process just until finely ground (Step 9).

Add half the basil to the bowl (Step 10) and process with half-second pulses just until finely chopped (Step 11). Repeat with the remaining basil. Add the cheeses and pulse to combine.

Turn on the motor and add the oil through the feed tube in a thin stream (Step 12) so the sauce emulsifies. If you don’t plan to use pesto immediately, place in a glass jar and seal by pouring a thin layer of olive oil over the top. Refrigerate up to four days. Pesto also freezes well; thaw in the refrigerator.

In 1985, Celestino Drago, then executive chef at Chianti restaurant, won grand prize for his pesto recipe in the Second Annual Basil Festival at Malibu. We have adapted it for food processor preparation.

BASIL PESTO

3/4 ounce Pecorino cheese

1 1/4 ounces Parmigiano Reggiano (Parmesan) cheese

12 medium cloves garlic

1/3 cup pine nuts

1/2 teaspoon coarse salt

3 ounces fresh basil leaves

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

Place Pecorino and Parmigiano Reggiano cheeses in food processor container fitted with metal blade. Process until finely grated. Remove and set aside.

With motor running, drop garlic through chute into food processor container and process until very fine. Remove processor lid and push garlic down into container with rubber spatula.

Add pine nuts and salt and process until nuts are grated. Add basil leaves in 2 to 3 batches and process with half-second pulses until finely chopped. Add reserved cheeses and pulse to combine.

With motor running, gradually add oil. Makes about 1 cup.

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