KIDS IN THE KITCHEN : ...

“I like to cook pizza, salad and candy . I like to cook because it is fun.” --Sarah Kaplan, age 7

“ If I could cook anything I wanted to I would cook hamburgers, cookies and doughnuts.” --Melissa McGee, age 7

“My mother taught me to like cooking. I would always watch her , so I like to cook now.” --Jade Tipton, age 7

Sarah Kaplan was 4 when she decided that she likes to have the kitchen to herself. She’d offered to help peel potatoes for a family Hanukkah party . . . provided her conditions were met: She’d peel the 10 pounds of potatoes that her mother needed--but she insisted that no one help her.

Nobody did.

Today, at age 7, Sarah hasn’t changed.

Take the afternoon Sarah volunteered to make eggs for an after-school snack. Sarah’s mother, Marci Kaplan, remembers being afraid the housekeeper would pass out from sheer horror if she walked into the room.

Tiny Sarah was perched on a wobbly chair at the stove, preparing for triumph. Having carefully cracked eggs into what Marci describes as, “the biggest skillet in my kitchen,” Sarah deftly began turning them over as they sizzled in hot butter.

Sarah wasn’t worried a bit; neither was Marci. Sarah’s cooking skills are being carefully honed at the cooking class she attends twice a month.

There she studies a variety of subjects--from science experiments you can eat to recipes for holiday menus.

“Cooking can be fun and exciting for kids” says Vanessa Parham, Sarah’s instructor at Jan and Van Kooking Klass for Kids at the Whistle Stop Cafe in Culver City. “And, I think that by being in the kitchen, kids learn math skills, time, measurements, responsibility and a sense that you have to clean up after you cook.”

Parham, who also teaches home economics to handicapped teen-agers for the L.A. Unified School District, says she is particularly interested in teaching children the nutritional value of food. She stresses the basic Four Food Groups to her students, who are divided into groups of 6- to 10-year-olds and 10- to 13-year olds. She takes her cooking students on excursions to the supermarket where they learn label reading and how to select the best ingredients for their recipes.

“I’m really big on that,” Parham says. “They need to know the difference between junk foods and healthy foods. I also teach them survival . . . things they can do like spreading peanut butter on toast, how to microwave frozen foods or popcorn when they’re at home alone.”

But cooking is even better when the whole family is at home. When days become a blur of dance lessons and soccer practice, followed by a quick microwave meal--usually eaten at the kitchen sink or between homework assignments--sharing the kitchen with the kids can be a unique opportunity to enjoy a few relaxed moments together.

For Melissa McGee and her mother, Kelly, preparing dinner is just such an occasion. Melissa started cooking a few years ago when Kelly invited her to help with dinner. Since hamburgers, Melissa’s favorite food, were on the menu, she accepted the offer. Today, she still helps out at dinner time.

As a working mother, Kelly’s time with 7-year-old Melissa is limited; she wants to make sure they enjoy some special activities together. Between homework and bath time, Melissa helps her mom prepare dinner. As they chat about the day’s events, Melissa shreds cheese, makes salad, sets the table and selects condiments.

“It’s the only substantial time a working parent has,” Kelly said, “I grew up with dinner as the family time--when we could talk about how the day went. It’s a time to relax and talk and we make the best of it.”

Unlike her friends Sarah and Melissa, who venture into the kitchen occasionally to help out, my daughter Jade is always in the kitchen.

Even if I’m not cooking, she’ll get out her toy oven--the kind that really bakes--and whip up a treat. After school, a simple piece of fruit never seems sufficient. A fruit salad, made from one half of every piece of fruit in the refrigerator is what she wants.

When I’m in the kitchen, she’ll offer to help with almost any kitchen chore. Although she is happiest when we’re making something sweet--especially cake or cookies--even dish washing and table setting are viewed as new and exciting adventures.

“Can I stir the meat?” she asks when spaghetti is on the dinner menu.

“Can I crack the eggs? Really, I know how to separate them--I’ve watched,” she assures me when I’m making muffins.

“I’ll roll the dough . . . no? OK, how about if I shred the carrots?”

Jade’s interest in cooking was piqued when she was about 5 years old. Once limited to stirring, patting and decorating holiday treats, her interest has now broadened and she appears to enjoy all the intricacies of cooking. She approaches simple tasks for adults--rolling dough for pastry, chopping nuts and vegetables, stirring punch or lemonade--with deliberate confidence.

Even if time doesn’t permit a full-scale cooking lesson, there are always simple tasks that children can do to help out in the kitchen. Tearing lettuce leaves for salad, setting the table, stirring beverages and frosting dessert can all make the child feel valuable.

But sharing the kitchen with children is not necessarily a calamity-free activity. Adults should be prepared for the inevitable spills that occur when little hands attempt to manipulate big equipment and responsibilities. Parents should do their best to make the job easier and safer.

Melissa, for example, works at the kitchen table--it is easy for her to reach and it provides more space than the counter top. Kelly makes sure that there is a steady stool nearby for Melissa to stand on while she uses the mixer, the toaster oven or the stove.

With Sarah, a less obvious approach to making adult-size jobs easy is necessary. Marci usually tries to be near enough to assist and observe without actually supervising Sarah’s kitchen duties. A stickler about safety, Marci makes sure Sarah has potholders ready for handling hot foods. She has taught Sarah to turn pan handles toward the center of the stove so that no one causes a spill when passing by.

Jade, on the other hand, likes some help--but not much--when measuring and organizing her ingredients. So together, we get out all of the items she’ll need for her recipe and put them on a tray. She scoops, spoons and levels her own dry ingredients and I help her pour the liquid ones. She puts the empty measures in the sink as she goes along. Then, when the tray is empty, she knows the recipe is finished. This also helps confine some of the mess.

All the mothers agreed that while cooking with kids isn’t always easy and is seldom clean, it can be a rewarding experience for everyone.

And most of the kids agree. “I think it’s kinda neat,” said Danny Peterson, a participant in the kids’ cooking class. “You can get your hands dirty and your clothes dirty . . . it’s fun.”

Many of these recipes come from the Jan and Van Kooking Klass for Kids at the Whistle Stop Cafe in Culver City.

FRUIT PIZZAS

1 (20-ounce) package spoonable refrigerated sugar cookie dough

1 (8-ounce) container soft cream cheese

2 tablespoons milk

1 teaspoon grated orange or lemon zest

Sugar

Sliced strawberries

Sliced bananas

Sliced peaches

Halved seedless grapes

Melon balls

Press dough into 4-inch tart pans. Bake at 300 degrees 25 to 30 minutes or until lightly browned. Cool.

Meanwhile, combine cream cheese, milk, orange zest and sugar to taste in small mixing bowl. Beat until smooth. Spread cream cheese mixture over cooled cookie tarts. Top with fruit. Makes 6 servings.

MULTI-GRAIN PIZZA PIES

1 cup oat flour

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup whole-wheat flour

1/4 cup wheat germ

1 teaspoon baking powder

2/3 cup milk

1/4 cup oil

1 (8-ounce) jar pizza sauce

1 1/2 cups shredded mozzarella cheese

1 small green pepper, diced

1 (3-ounce) package pepperoni

Combine oat flour, all-purpose flour, whole-wheat flour, wheat germ and baking powder in bowl. Stir in milk and oil. Mix until dough forms ball. Place dough on lightly floured surface and knead about 10 times.

Divide dough into 6 portions. Roll each ball into 8-inch round. Spread half of each round with pizza sauce, to about 1/2-inch from edge. Top with cheese, green pepper and pepperoni. Add few more spoons sauce on top, if desired. Fold other side of dough over toppings. Press edges to seal, then fold and crimp to close tightly.

Bake at 425 degrees 15 to 20 minutes until done. Makes 6 pies.

GRAPE NINJA TURTLES

3/4 pound seedless green grapes

2 pints ice cream

16 pecan halves

1/4 cup semisweet chocolate pieces

Cut small x’s in each of 4 grapes and set aside. Cut remaining grapes into halves lengthwise.

Scoop 1 large ball ice cream onto each of 4 dessert plates. Press to flatten slightly. Tuck 4 pecans under each ball to form turtle feet. Gently press grapes with x’s onto ice cream ball for head. Press 2 chocolate pieces into each head for eyes. Freeze 30 minutes.

Arrange grape halves on top of frozen ice cream ball to form turtle shell. Freeze until firm, 1 to 2 hours.

Melt remaining chocolate pieces in small bowl in microwave oven on HIGH about 1 minute. Drizzle over turtles and freeze until ready to serve. Makes 4 turtles.

TURTLE HOT DOGS

4 hamburger rolls

1 cup baked beans

4 frankfurters

1 tablespoon butter or margarine

1/4 cup sweet pickle relish

4 carrot sticks

4 pimiento-stuffed olives

Split hamburger rolls into halves and place under broiler until toasted. Keep warm.

Heat beans in small saucepan or microwave until heated through. Keep warm.

Split frankfurters into halves lengthwise. Melt butter in small skillet; add frankfurters and cook until lightly browned.

Spread pickle relish on bottom halves of toasted rolls. Top each with 2 frankfurter slices, forming x. Spoon on beans, then top with tops of rolls. Push carrot sticks into olives, then insert carrots into rolls to form turtle head. Makes 4 servings.

FRESH FRUIT SHAKE

1 cup sliced strawberries or other ripe fruit, cut-up

1 large banana, sliced

1 (5 1/2-ounce) can apricot or peach nectar

1 teaspoon honey

3 ice cubes

Place strawberries and bananas in blender container. Pour in nectar and honey. Add ice cubes. Cover blender and blend on high speed about 1 minute or until thick and smooth. Pour into 2 glasses and serve. Makes 2 servings.

FROZEN FRUIT CONES

1 (10-ounce) package frozen strawberries, thawed

1 (11-ounce) can mandarin orange segments

1 cup green grapes

1 (8-ounce) can pineapple tidbits in juice, undrained

1/4 cup frozen orange juice concentrate, thawed

7 ice cream cones

Chop strawberries and place in large bowl. Drain juice from orange segments, then chop oranges and add to bowl. Cut grapes into halves and add to bowl along with pineapple tidbits. Stir in orange juice and mix well. Cover and freeze until firm.

Remove from freezer 1 to 1 1/2 hours before serving. Place 1 scoop frozen mixture in each ice cream cone. Makes 7 cones.