A Fast New Take on Chinese Cooking : Recipes: In-house seasonings and Chinese-cooking methods make quick work of meals.

As my traveling, writing and consulting activities take up more and more of my time, I find myself designing meals based on the simplicity and rapidity of their preparation. These “quick and easy” recipes entail no sacrifice of quality, nor do they imply machine-made “fast food.” The menus mean only that the more elaborate and time-consuming elements of Chinese cooking have been omitted or re-fashioned in order to expedite the preparation of authentic and delectable meals. The essence remains the same.

I have been developing these quick and easy recipes and techniques throughout the years. Freshness of primary ingredients remains my first concern. I have, however, employed alternative techniques and allowed for substitution of secondary ingredients.

This has not been as difficult as it might seem. Except for a few sauces and seasonings, authentic Chinese cookery doesn’t depend upon ingredients the way, for example, Japanese cooking does. We substitute “Western” or processed foods and ingredients if necessary or desirable. Thus tomatoes, corn, potatoes, sweet potatoes, asparagus and a host of “alien” foods have been readily accepted into Chinese cuisine.

Remember too that not all processed foods must be scorned. Canned tomatoes are an excellent substitute for fresh, and frozen vegetables are sometimes superior to (and less expensive than) fresh but out-of-season varieties.

Techniques too may be modified as the time available permits. Pressure cookers, electric mixers and slow cookers, food processors, even microwave ovens have been accepted into “authentic” Chinese kitchens. After all, even the wok was once an innovation.

Technique and a few essential seasonings can make everyone’s native foods “Chinese.” They also make for excellent quick and easy food. What matters, once a pantry is stocked with some basic Chinese staples, is organization, the right recipes and experience.

Use these recipes as a point of departure. When you shop, do it when you can take time; savor the experience of building a pantry. Note that some of the recipes have a longer list of ingredients. This is essential to capturing the flavors of authentic good cooking. Even quick and easy requires attention, but few things in this world are more worthy of time and concern.

Scallops are fragile, sweetly delicate morsels and need very little preparation or cooking time. They embody the virtues of “quick, easy, delicious.” In this recipe, they are combined with nutritious, flavorful and colorful sweet red and green peppers. The result is a festive-looking dish that belies its ease of preparation, perfect for a family meal or as the centerpiece of a dinner party prepared on short notice.

Preparation Time: 15 minutes.

Cooking Time: 10 minutes.

STIR-FRIED PEPPERS WITH SCALLOPS

1 pound fresh scallops

2 sweet red peppers

1 green pepper

4 1/2 teaspoons peanut oil

4 1/2 teaspoons coarsely chopped green onions

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped garlic

2 teaspoons finely chopped ginger root

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

2 teaspoons yellow bean sauce

2 tablespoons rice wine or dry Sherry

1 teaspoon sugar

1 teaspoon sesame oil

Dry scallops with paper towels. Set aside. Cut peppers into 1-inch squares.

Heat wok or large skillet until hot. Add oil, green onions, garlic and ginger and stir-fry 10 seconds. Add peppers and stir-fry 2 minutes. Stir in scallops, soy and yellow bean sauces, rice wine, sugar and sesame oil. Cook 4 minutes longer. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Note: Asparagus, zucchini or snow peas may be substituted for sweet red and green peppers. Mussels or clams may be used instead of scallops. If very spicy food is desired, add 2 fresh seeded and chopped chiles.

This unusual fish dish makes perfectly cooked fish in almost no time at all. The fish is pounded thin (very easy to do) and then actually cooked on the plates, which, of course, must be heat-proof. The plates must be preheated to a very hot state. Carefully place a little oil on them, place the flattened fillets on the plates, add the heated sauce and the fish cooks through in about 5 minutes. Timing and “touch” are important here. Practice this very quick dish a few times before you make it the feature of a dinner party. Once you have it mastered, it will delight guests.

Preparation Time: 15 minutes.

Cooking Time: 10 minutes.

5-MINUTE FISH COOKED ON PLATE

1 pound fresh fish fillets, preferably salmon or tuna

5 ounces rice wine or dry Sherry

Water

1 tablespoon dark soy sauce

1 teaspoon light soy sauce

2 teaspoons finely chopped ginger root

2 teaspoons sugar

1 teaspoon sesame oil

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1 tablespoon peanut oil

3 tablespoons finely chopped green onions

Place 4 heat-proof plates in 325-degree oven. Heat 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, divide fish into 4 portions. Place each piece between 2 sheets of plastic wrap and gently pound until fish is 1/8-inch thick.

Combine rice wine, 3 tablespoons water, soy sauces, ginger, sugar and sesame oil in saucepan and bring to simmer over medium heat. Combine cornstarch with 1 teaspoon water. Stir into pan and cook until thickened.

Carefully remove hot plates from oven. Rub each plate with small amount peanut oil. Place 1 fillet on each plate. Spoon sauce over top of each piece of fish. Let stand 5 minutes to cool slightly. Garnish with green onions. Makes 4 servings.

Note: Hot sauce and hot plate will be sufficient to cook fish. Timing is very important. Try several times before using recipe for dinner party. Makes excellent entree or main course with salad.

Orange and lemon are wonderful flavors that chicken breasts readily absorb and blend with. This is a classic quick and easy meal, quite fulfilling as a main course with plain rice and a salad.

Preparation Time: 15 minutes.

Cooking Time: 5 minutes.

QUICK ORANGE-LEMON CHICKEN

3/4 pound boneless chicken breasts

1 tablespoon peanut oil

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped garlic

1 teaspoon finely chopped ginger root

2 teaspoons finely chopped orange zest

2 teaspoons finely chopped lemon zest

1/4 cup orange juice

1/4 cup lemon juice

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1 teaspoon cold water

1 teaspoon chili bean sauce

2 teaspoons sesame oil

3 tablespoons coarsely chopped green onions

Remove skin from chicken and cut meat into long, thin strips. Blanch chicken 30 seconds in pan of boiling, salted water. Drain and set aside.

Heat wok or large skillet until hot. Add oil, garlic and ginger and stir-fry 10 seconds. Add orange and lemon zests, orange and lemon juices, soy sauce, sugar, cornstarch mixed with cold water, chili bean sauce, sesame oil and green onions. Bring mixture to simmer. Add chicken and cook through. Makes 2 servings.

Note: Remember that chicken continues to cook at least 30 seconds after removed from wok. Serve dish cold for exotic picnic item or as part of cold buffet.

Chinese cuisine offers some of the most delicious and stimulating barbecue sauces. This combination of sauces is delicious with chicken wings, transforming an inexpensive food into a delightful dish. Serve these tasty morsels with drinks. The recipe is meant for a large group, but for an even bigger gathering, simply double or triple the ingredients. They take a few minutes to cook but need no watching. Serve them hot or let them cool to room temperature. They are just as wonderful after they’ve cooled and thus make a most appropriate picnic dish.

Preparation Time: 10 minutes.

Cooking Time: 35 minutes.

CHINESE BARBECUE CHICKEN WINGS

2 pounds chicken wings

2 tablespoons dark soy sauce

3 tablespoons hoisin sauce

2 large cloves garlic

1 tablespoon coarsely chopped ginger root

1 tablespoon rice wine or dry Sherry

1 tablespoon sesame oil

2 teaspoons chili bean sauce

2 teaspoons sugar

Place chicken wings in heat-proof baking dish.

Combine soy and hoisin sauces, garlic, ginger, rice wine, sesame oil, chili bean sauce and sugar in blender and process 5 seconds. Add sauce to chicken wings, mixing to thoroughly coat wings.

Bake at 475 degrees 15 minutes. Reduce temperature to 350 degrees and cook 20 minutes longer. Serve hot or cool to room temperature. Makes 4 servings.

Note : Make double batch of barbecue sauce and use later in week as sauce for grilled lamb or pork chops. Prepare wings and sauce in morning and leave covered with plastic wrap in refrigerator. Be sure to bring to room temperature before cooking.

This is a refreshing soup and makes a sparkling meal starter. It’s a year-round favorite of mine because canned tomatoes are one of the few processed foods I use. Use fresh tomatoes when available, but remember, they cook quickly and need little preparation. Note: The soup reheats nicely.

Preparation Time: 9 minutes.

Cooking Time: 6 minutes.

TOMATO-GINGER SOUP

1 pound fresh or canned tomatoes

1 quart chicken stock

3 tablespoons coarsely chopped ginger root

1 tablespoon light soy sauce

2 teaspoons chili bean sauce

2 teaspoons sugar

If using fresh tomatoes, cut in half horizontally. Squeeze out seeds, coarsely chop tomatoes and set aside.

Pour stock into saucepan and bring to simmer. Add ginger, soy sauce, chili bean sauce, sugar and tomatoes. Simmer 2 minutes. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Note: Recipe can easily be doubled for entertaining number of friends. For Southeast Asian touch, add 2 tablespoons lemon juice. For hot summer days, serve soup at room temperature.