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RESTAURANT REVIEW: MK’S : First Impression : A husband-and-wife team offers professional service and top-quality food at new restaurant.

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The word on the street: MK’s is hot. But on a recent late summer afternoon, walking into the restaurant’s courtyard for the first time, I found MK’s to be an oasis. A warm breeze flowed through the patio as the sun sent shadows dancing across the restaurant’s desert-colored walls.

The restaurant is the creation of two MK’s: Michelle Katherine Sandoval and Martin Kenneth Gay. They’re the husband-and-wife team who previously operated the successful Voila in Ventura. Voila’s success may have created a sense of anticipation for the Sandoval-Gay project.

Now that MK’s is open for business, it’s frequently packed--both with locals and out-of-towners. But reservations are usually easy to get. And the service is friendly and professional. Sandoval, who is usually seen moving about the restaurant, seems to have done a first-class job in training her staff to be responsive to customers.

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Her husband runs the kitchen, and some of his dishes are very, very good. There’s seafood Vera Cruz, full of fresh salmon and scallops, prawn-size shrimp, olives and fresh mushrooms in a salsa wine sauce. And there’s an impressive “grazing platter” of grilled vegetables, grains, soft cheese, chutney, salsa and an occasional surprise or two. In his penne vodka, Gay takes a vodka and cream sauce, adds sun-dried tomatoes and reduces the mixture down so it’s not cloyingly heavy, as white sauces often are.

His pork chops are stuffed with a carefully seasoned mixture of apples, raisins and almonds, then flamed in a Madeira sauce.

Once, when I ordered the grilled chicken breast marinated in tequila, I did get an overcooked piece of meat. But the waiter very graciously took the chicken back and replaced it with a juicy breast that did justice to its tequila sauce.

There are a couple of so-so dishes. The chopped salad with sun-dried tomatoes, for instance, forces one to look carefully for the tomato hidden among the greens. And MK’s fideo , vermicelli cooked in a chicken broth with vegetables, was surprisingly bland.

But there is great bread here--perfect, fresh cracked wheat bread that MK’s gets from a small wholesale operation in Ojai called Monica’s.

And there’s always dessert. You’ll go far before finding a better apricot cobbler. Its pastry is soaked with apricot juices and it’s not too sweet. This is the sort of dish that could take even a non-dessert person right to the edge.

* WHERE AND WHEN: MK’s in Ojai, 139 E. Ojai Ave., Ojai. (805) 640-8001. Breakfast 8-11 a.m. Monday, Wednesday-Friday; until noon Saturday-Sunday. Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday, Wednesday-Friday; noon-2:30 p.m. Saturday-Sunday. Dinner 5-10 p.m. Wednesday-Monday. Full bar. Reservations accepted. Major credit cards accepted. Meal for two, food only, $26-$58.

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