Bountiful Bistros : <i> You could easily have an affair with any of these Frenchies. </i>

The Bistro, 246 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills. (213) 273-5633. Style: French for the fiftysomething crowd. Setting: Froufrou. Recommended: Tuna carpaccio; Frog legs provencale ; chocolate souffle. Cost per person: $35-$45.

The Bistro at Fantasia, 17500 Castleton St., City of Industry. (818) 912-6065. Style: More Continental than pure French, with Cajun tendencies. Setting: Caesar’s Palace goes disco. Recommended: Marinated artichoke leaves with crab meat, cajun catfish, steak sandwich. Cost per person: $12-$30.

The Bistro Garden, 176 N. Canon Drive, Beverly Hills. (213) 550-3900. Style: The patio version of The Bistro, popular with the ladies who lunch. Setting: Lots of umbrellas and lighting that makes you look good. Recommended: Chicken burger, cold cucumber soup, ox tongue marsala. Cost per person: $30-$40.

Mistral, 13422 Ventura Blvd., Sherman Oaks. (818) 981-6650. Style: A Piaf and Pernod kind of place. Setting: High-Deco mirrors and sconces; chandeliers; dark wood. Recommended: Provencal pizza; strip steak; rack of lamb; potato chips. Cost per person: $12-$25.

Seventh Street Bistro, 815 W. 7th St., Los Angeles. (213) 627-1242. Style: Classy French with flourish. Setting: Sleek with good art. Recommended: Cold poached salmon, squab salad, roast loin of lamb. Cost per person: $40-$80.