A Guide to the Best of Southern California : FOOD : Sausage, Tunisian Style

MERGUEZ, a hot and spicy lamb sausage, is to Spain and North Africa what hot dogs are to New York and Chicago. These small, breakfast-size links can be found as snacks in the street markets or dished up at home with couscous. Now merguez (adapted to Southern California tastes) is finding its way onto dinner plates here.

Oasis Brand Merguez--made from a preservative-free mix of Colorado lamb, cayenne pepper, salt, paprika, mint, garlic, parsley, onions, cilantro and harissa (a tamed-down version of the fiery-hot blend of crushed red peppers and cumin)--is sold to a wholesale clientele only, except for the big, three-ounce sausages sold at Trader Joe’s ($3.49 per one-pound package).

Oasis Brand Merguez is available in the freezer case at all Trader Joe’s.