BEST BITES

The following are capsule reviews of some of the better restaurants recently visited by our critics:

The Sportsman Restaurant and Cocktail Lounge is a throwback to the 1950s and ‘60s when it was one of the “special occasion” restaurants in Ventura. Although its prices might have changed with the times, the quality of its steaks and chops has not. The Sportsman is at 50 S. California St., Ventura, 643-2851. Open 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Monday-Friday, 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Saturday, 9 a.m.-2 p.m. for breakfast and lunch on Sunday, 5 p.m.-10 p.m. for dinner. Lunch for two, food only, $12-$20. Dinner for two, food only, $25-$46.

The owners of Jag’s India House call their Northern Indian cooking “royal Mogul cuisine.” The hot fresh breads alone are worth the trip to the restaurant. There are dozens of versions of curries, from a fabulous shrimp masala to a lamb rogan josh . Jag’s India House, 860 Hampshire, Suite U, Westlake Village, (805) 373-6266. Lunch 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; dinner 5:30-10 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday. Wine and Beer. Parking lot. MasterCard and Visa. Dinner for two, food only, $30-$50.

MK’s is hot and cold. Hot in that it’s frequently packed, cool as an oasis on a summer afternoon. Some dishes are very, very good, notably the seafood Vera Cruz and the “grazing platter” of grilled vegetables, grains, soft cheese, chutney and salsa. The bread is great, and when it is dessert time you’ll go far before finding a better apricot cobbler. MK’s is at 139 Ojai Ave., Ojai, 640-8001. Breakfast 8-11 a.m. Monday, Wednesday-Friday; until noon Saturday-Sunday. Lunch 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. Monday, Wednesday-Friday; noon-2:30 p.m. Saturday-Sunday. Dinner 5-10 p.m. Wednesday-Monday. Meal for two, food only, $26-$58.

Downey’s is expensive, and sometimes it’s worth it. The duck, no matter how prepared, is excellent. Add some of Downey’s outstanding appetizers, such as the grilled squab, and flawless desserts, the Belgian chocolate marquis, for example, and you’ll avoid the pitfalls--overcooked fish and undistinguished beef and lamb dishes. Downey’s is at 1305 State St., Santa Barbara, (805) 966-5006. Dinner Tuesday to Sunday from 5:3O p.m. Dinner for two, food only, $65 to $80.