Apple Pie : PIES: We Pick the Best

“I first had this pie at someone’s home kitchen in Kansas City about 20 years ago,” said Don Ernstein, owner of Wonderful Parties, Wonderful Foods. “After that there was no other apple pie for me.”

One bite and I knew what he meant. I loved this true Midwestern pie. And so did most of the tasters at The Times Test Kitchen.

It’s an all-brown pie, with a dark streusel topping. You cut through it to reveal the pale green of the Granny Smiths. The filling is generous, yet it doesn’t collapse when the pie is sliced. The pastry--beautifully perfumed with cinnamon--is flaky but holds it shape.

I like the pie’s variety of textures, but what I like best is its wonderful range of sweetness, tanginess and creaminess. Warm or cold, this pie is a real winner.

Wonderful Parties, Wonderful Foods , 10848 Washington Blvd., Culver City, (213) 933-6211 .

APPLES AND CREAM CRUMB PIE

1 1/2 cups sour cream

1 egg

1 cup sugar

1/4 cup flour

2 teaspoons vanilla

1/2 teaspoon salt

3 pounds apples, peeled, cored and cut in thin wedges

Cinnamon Pastry Shell

Streusel Topping

Combine sour cream, egg, sugar, flour, vanilla and salt in large bowl. Add apples and mix well. Turn into pie shell. Cover crimped edges lightly with foil. Bake at 450 degrees 10 minutes, reduce heat to 350 degrees and continue baking 35 to 40 minutes.

Remove pie from oven. Stir apple filling, gently but thoroughly. Remove foil around edges. Spoon Streusel Topping evenly on top. Return to oven and bake 15 to 20 minutes longer. Serve warm, at room temperature or cold. Makes 1 (10-inch) pie.

Cinnamon Pastry Shell

1 3/4 cups flour

1/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/2 teaspoon salt

2/3 cup cold butter

2 to 3 tablespoons cold water

Combine flour, sugar, cinnamon and salt in mixer bowl. Cut in cold butter until particles are size of small peas. Sprinkle in cold water, 1 tablespoon at time, tossing with fork until all flour is moistened and pastry almost cleans side of bowl.

Gather into ball. On lightly floured board, roll pastry 2 inches larger than inverted 10-inch pie plate. Ease into pie plate and crimp edges decoratively.

Streusel Topping

1/2 cup flour

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1/3 cup brown sugar, packed

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup cold butter

1 cup coarsely chopped walnuts

Combine flour, granulated sugar, brown sugar, cinnamon and salt in bowl. Cut in cold butter until crumbly. Add walnuts.