Fit to Be Tied

To men of a certain age and upbringing, shoes are the most important items in a wardrobe. These men judge success by a spit-shine; scuff marks indicate some inherent character flaw.

They own maybe two pairs, black and brown, sometimes burgundy. The life spans of sturdy, American-made wing-tips and penny loafers by Cole-Haan and Bass and Wright are measured in decades, not years.

The sensibilities of this generation have been slapped hard, though. The athletic shoe’s rise as everyday, everywhere foot gear was the first assault. Then came the punky ‘80s, when Dr. Marten’s and bulky clodhoppers with 3-inch soles stomped onto the scene. Well, the old guard can smile once again because what’s hip and what’s classic are crossing paths.

Updated oxfords, wing-tips and penny loafers, done in buckskin and brushed suede, are coming on strong. Colors are taupes, browns and greens. Black is still there, of course, but it’s a kinder, gentler look, with some shoes going for two-tone of black and khaki or green.

“It’s a dramatic turnaround from fall of ’89 when black was the major theme,” says Ron Katz, executive vice president of Zodiac U.S.A. of New Hampshire. Katz confirms that the colors for fall will be more natural: browns, khaki and loden.

“If there’s a twist, it’s in fabric and color,” says JeJe Meisinger, buyer for Maxfield. “Nothing is too crazy.”