Good Advice Available to Prepare for ‘Big One’

QUESTION: What advice do you have for surviving the “big” earthquake?

ANSWER: There is too much good information available for us to presume to provide an original answer. Instead, read the following (in about the order of their complexity):

--Telephone book advice on shutting off gas, etc.

--”Beat the Quake” brochure prepared by the state, available from regional Earthquake Preparedness Offices at (619) 238-3321; (818) 795-9055; (415) 893-0818; (916) 427-6659.

--Sunset magazine article “Getting Ready for a Big Quake,” March, 1982.

Inspectors Do Mind Business of Buyer

Q: Why don’t home inspectors stick to code enforcement and stay out of such areas as roof wear and safety enhancements? I think you all overstep your bounds by making a big deal out of things that are none of a buyer’s business.

A: Your concept of a home inspector’s job is simply wrong; in any case far from how most people construe it. Your concept of what is a home buyer’s business is archaic, dating from the days of caveat emptor.

Today because of a combination of high prices and court decisions, buyers expect the homes they buy to be safe and maintained. “Code” allows for any number of pre-existing conditions which a prudent buyer will want to be aware of. Code does not apply to the wear and deterioration that may result in imminent expenses. Items such as these are the buyer’s business.

Hollow-Core Doors Often Not Maintained

Q: Would you comment on the hollow-core doors that builders have been using for exterior applications? It seems to me that they are pure junk, and should not be allowed?

A: The doors you refer to are approved for use outdoors; the problem is mostly with installation and maintenance. Painters tend to be lax about thoroughly painting such doors thoroughly (especially the top and bottom edges), and homeowners tend not to maintain the paint seal.

When there are unsealed edges or other places that allow water penetration, the door skins delaminate, damaging the doors. This is presumably the basis of your complaint. I think of such doors as expendables, cheaply replaced if they are not maintained.

Although I usually find them damaged, the cost of replacement is nominal, and the risk of other damage if not replaced is virtually nil.

Wood Stove Near Wall Could Be a Time Bomb

Q: I’m afraid that my free-standing wood stove may be too close to the frame wall. Since it looks fine and it has been there for years, I’m of a mind to conclude that “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.” Any comments?

A: You could have a time bomb in this stove, and must not dismiss the risk. Wood that is subject to high temperatures gradually becomes less resistant to fire.

Consider the analogy of the tires on your car: You wouldn’t wait until you have a blowout to replace them. A potential fire hazard (or any other safety risk around a house) is comparable. You should make sure it is installed right.

There may be an identification label on the stove that lists the set-back requirement. If so, make sure the stove meets the label distances. If not, it would be best to consult a stove specialist or your local building department for specific requirements.

How to Tell When Circuit Overloaded?

Q: How do I translate amp or watt ratings on appliances into something more meaningful?

A: The amp or watt rating allows you to judge whether you may be overloading a circuit with just simple arithmetic.

Household outlet circuits are rated at 15 or 20 amps. Unless you know otherwise, use 15 to be on the safe side. Then you can simply add up the amp ratings of everything you are using on a circuit to see if you’re under the safe limit.

For instance, you could safely use three appliances each rated at 5 amps. But don’t forget to include all the outlets on the circuit--such as the refrigerator outlet on a kitchen circuit.

Tracing all the outlets can be laborious, but must be done if you’re pushing the limit. To convert appliances or fixtures that are rated in watts to amps, simply divide the watt rating by 120 (power (watts) = amps x volts; thus amps = watts divided by volts).

For instance, a 1,000-watt appliance draws 1,000/120 = 8.33 amps. You could not safely use two 1,000 watt appliances on one 15 amp circuit. Typically, the highest amp/watt usage is appliances which heat such as heaters, toasters, coffee pots.

Lack of Ventilation May Cause Roof Harm

Q: My roof has asphalt shingles that are only a few years old. Many of the shingles are curled. What caused this, and should I be concerned?

A: Curled shingles often indicate poor attic ventilation. The attic air becomes very hot unless ventilated, and this heat can damage roofing materials. Adding attic vents is usually fairly simple, such as through the gables or through the roof.

You can check for attic vents by looking into the attic for visible light. There should be vents at two different places to allow fresh air to flow through the attic. If in doubt, consult a roofing contractor to have vents added.

Ross is the public relations chairman for the California Real Estate Inspection Assn. (CREIA / ASHI), a statewide trade association of home inspectors. Readers may send their comments or questions on home inspection topics to Bill Ross, CREIA, 1100 N St., Suite 5-D, Sacramento, Calif. 95814.