Thumper Meals

When you’re really in the mood for rabbit food. Campanile, 624 S. La Brea Ave., Los Angeles. (213) 938-1447. Style: Rustic Italian for the thirtysomething crowd. Setting: Romantically hip, with Moorish arches and charming balconies. Recommended: Braised rabbit on crisp polenta with applewood smoked bacon, $19. (Call ahead; the menu changes daily.)

Champagne, 10506 Little Santa Monica Blvd., West Los Angeles. (213) 470-8446. Style: A grown-up restaurant serving state-of-the-art California/French/Spa food. Setting: Back door entrance to cozy elegance. Recommended: Saddle of rabbit roasted in bacon with mustard green sauce, $21.

Knoll’s Black Forest Inn, 2454 Wilshire Blvd., Santa Monica. (213) 395-2212. Style: Standard German with a twist; the wine list is a happy surprise. Setting: Tacky Teutonic--deer heads, beer steins, cuckoo clocks. There’s an attractive patio. Recommended: Hasenpfeffer, $18.50 (Ask to see if it’s on special, or give the chef a few days’ notice.)

La Chaumiere at Century Plaza Hotel, 200 Avenue of the Stars, Century City. (213) 551-3360. Style: A nouvelle French restaurant for the Reagans. Setting: Antique oils, dark wood, plush carpets. Recommended: Hazelnut breaded rabbit loin with watercress custard and shallot confit, $22.