Spicing Up the Westside Pavilion

The most startling item on the menu at the newly opened Mesa Verde in the Westside Pavilion is the chile relleno . . . stuffed with goat cheese and baked in filo pastry . . . whole-wheat filo pastry. Not a promising start to dinner.

Fortunately, there is relief in the form of good burritos, platters of soft tacos and a so-called “fiery” enchilada that actually has some kick to it. This is a sleek, full-service spinoff of the fast-food Mrs. Garcia’s chain. That means you can sip on a frozen margarita or have a Michelob night as you munch on chicken fajitas or a char-grilled vegetable quesadilla. One bit of innovation in the kitchen that works is the taquitos plate. Instead of the usual drenching of pre-made guacamole, Mesa Verde’s version--stuffed with good, spicy chorizo, jack cheese and green chiles--is covered with tomatillo salsa.

As for the filo chile relleno, well, it wasn’t that bad.

Mesa Verde, 10800 W. Pico Blvd., ground floor Westside Pavilion, (213) 475-7378. Entrees $4.95 to $12.95.