The New Naturalism : Ed Brown: Zen and the Art of Cooking

When a chef from the Culinary Institute went to work at the most celebrated vegetarian restaurant in the country, Greens in San Francisco, a man who introduced himself only as Ed helped her out in the kitchen.

Toward the end of the day, after he had cut gallons of onions and leeks, she said, “Gee, you’re pretty good at this.” He shrugged. “Why don’t you make the vinaigrette for the leeks?” The man declined. “Why not?” she asked. “I don’t want to get involved in matters of taste,” he said. “It’s all right,” the chef urged, “you can trust yourself.” Protesting, Ed proceeded to make the vinaigrette. The food professional tasted it and pronounced it “fine.” “See, you can trust yourself,” she said encouragingly.

Two weeks later the food professional came back to Greens looking for Ed. “You didn’t tell me that you’re the person who wrote all these books saying you can trust yourself,” she said, chagrinned. As Ed explains it: “I was just trying to be an assistant and do what a new prep person would.”

“I’m pretty anonymous,” says Edward Espe Brown, author of two cookbooks including the cult classic “The Tassajara Bread Book.” “People do show up and thank me for introducing them to making bread, but at the checkout stand where I buy my produce they still ask for identification.”

In 1970, when “The Tassajara Bread Book” appeared, Ed Brown did not go on a talk show and book-signing tour. He was living, cooking and practicing meditation deep in the heart of the Ventana Wilderness, 16 miles down an impossibly steep road, at Tassajara Hot Springs. As head cook of the San Francisco Zen Center’s rural monastery, Brown was in charge of preparing simple vegetarian meals for the other Zen students and richer, more complex family-style ones for the paying guests who arrived during the summer season.

As Brown tells it, he went from dishwasher (who also baked all the bread) to full-fledged chef the way chorus girls become stars on Broadway: smack in the middle of guest season, one of the cooks quit. Brown decided his food should be “artistic, creative, inventive, exciting and stimulating.” And he wanted the people who ate it to fall in love with him. If the summer guests relished Brown as much as they did his cuisine, his co-workers emphatically did not.

“As the one who decided the menu and how to season things, I bossed everyone else around so much they started having meetings about me: ‘What are we going to do with Ed?’ Finally there was a kitchen rebellion. I remember one woman said I treated them just like the bread dough. Then she apologized. ‘Actually, you treat the bread dough rather nicely.’ The director at Tassajara came to me with a group of people from the kitchen and said ‘Are you going to change? Are you willing to work differently with people or not?’ When I realized they were saying, ‘How do you think we’ll develop our capacities if you never let us?’ I started thinking about that.”

Brown changed. And in so doing, he planted the seeds for his next cookbook. He began considering how people could learn to trust their own taste. So instead of saying “Would you cut this and this and then I’ll assemble the soup” he would say “You make the soup. If you have any questions you can ask me.”

“Our culture doesn’t give us much space to make mistakes, to find out how to do things ourselves rather than from directions. But how do you make the shift to being your own authority if you don’t just take the chance?”

His “Tassajara Cooking” was written with this idea in mind. There are scarcely any measurements given in the book, a fact he says readers find either intimidating or liberating. The book presents simple themes and multiple variations. A recipe for bean soup, for example, is a generic bean soup with suggestions for alternate vegetables and herbs. Brown’s dry humor resonates through the work. “Raw beets,” he writes, “are very occasionally eaten grated in salad. They taste, quite simply, like dirt, which may not be so bad, but the more usual way is to cook them first and then grate.”

Brown left Tassajara Hot Springs for San Francisco in 1973. Six years later and two weeks after Greens opened its doors, he joined the staff and proceeded to work there until 1983 as bus boy, waiter, floor manager and, very occasionally, cook. No matter what the job was, he stayed the ever-unassuming Zen student.

In 1987 Brown and chef Deborah Madison co-authored “The Greens Cook Book.” Their manuscript was filled with instructions such as “cook the onions until they’re translucent” and “season to taste with vinegar.” Their New York editor responded by scribbling, “how long?” and “how much?” on page after page. Brown and Madison finally got exasperated and Brown decided to write an introduction about learning to trust one’s own sensibilities.

Direct experience and paying attention to what is present at any given moment are tenets of Buddhist studies--and of Brown’s cooking. In his Cooking as Spiritual Practice workshop at Tassajara Hot Springs, he’ll take four or five vegetables and bake, boil, steam and saute each of them so students can sense exactly how different cooking processes alter flavors. A class in seasonings might involve preparing five tomato sauces alternately with chiles, ground sesame seeds, onions, chocolate and different herbs. Brown will ask students to pay close attention to the variations in taste.

He’s presently at work on a new book, a combination of Tassajara memoir, his thinking on food and spiritual practice and an examination of “just what a cook is.” As writer, Zen student and food professional, carefully observing materials and intentions is at the core of his methodology.

There is, of course, a culinary equivalent for “Zen and the Art of Archery.” Ed Brown teaches an exacting class in knife sharpening. “It’s basically a meditative practice. You have to willing to spend some time with it. If you’re impatient and in too much of a hurry, nothing happens. If you want to sharpen a knife, you have to sharpen your mind. It’s all about bringing your awareness to what you’re doing.”

For information on Brown’s classes and to be put on his mailing list, write to P.O. Box 631, Inverness, Calif. 94937.

“Pears are a fine alternative to more usual dessert fillings such as pumpkin, apple or mince. My favorite varieties are the bosc and the red bartlett. Since the pears in the market usually are not quite ripe, buy them two or three days ahead of crisp-cooking day.

My crisp recipe seems to have gone through various stages. Now it seems best with butter and white sugar: butter for its classic flavor, white sugar because it imposes itself least on the flavor of the pears.”

PEAR CRISP WITH CARDAMON

1 1/2 pounds pears, sliced

Grated zest of 1/2 lemon

1/4 cup whole-wheat flour

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

3/8 cup sugar

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom or 3/8 teaspoon freshly ground

3/8 cup unsalted butter, diced

Mix sliced pears with grated lemon zest and place in 9-inch pie dish. Combine whole wheat and all-purpose flours with sugar, salt and cardamom in bowl. Cut in butter with knives or pastry blender until mixture resembles coarse cornmeal. Distribute flour mixture over pears.

Bake at 375 degrees until pears are tender, topping is lightly browned and juices are building up around edges, about 40 minutes. Serve plain or with whipped cream or vanilla ice cream. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

“This pasta dish is colorful and flavorful--the corkscrew pasta comes in a mix of egg, spinach, and beet, and the grated cheese is passed separately so the splendid colors may be enjoyed before being buried in cheese. It’s also comparatively low in calories, since the sauce uses dry vermouth rather than oil or cream. People seem to have the capacity to eat varying amounts of pasta. I figure about 1/4 pound per person as a general rule, assuming that the pasta dish is not the only thing on the menu.”

MULTI-COLORED CORKSCREW PASTA WITH VEGETABLES AND DRY VERMOUTH

1 pound assorted vegetables: green beans, carrots, celery, mushrooms, green peppers or asparagus

Salt

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 small yellow onions, diced

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup dry vermouth

1 1/2 dozen sundried tomatoes, cut in thin strips

1 pound “rainbow” corkscrews (vegetable-flavored pasta twists)

1/4 cup minced mixed fresh herbs: parsley, thyme, marjoram, chervil or basil

Freshly ground pepper

Few drops lemon juice or balsamic vinegar, optional

1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan or asiago cheese

Cut green beans in long diagonal or lengthwise pieces and julienne carrots. Cut celery, mushrooms, green peppers or asparagus in narrow pieces about 2 inches long (mushrooms may be left whole if small.) Fill large saucepan with 3 to 4 quarts water and 2 to 3 teaspoons salt. Bring to boil on high heat.

Heat olive oil in large skillet over medium-high heat. Saute onions until translucent. Add garlic and cook briefly. Add mushrooms and cook until juices are released. Add vermouth and continue cooking until liquid is reduced by half.

When water boils, blanch vegetables individually until tender: about 1 minute for carrots and green peppers, and about 3 minutes for green beans. Remove each vegetable when done with slotted spoon. If using plain rather than oil-packed sundried tomatoes, blanch about 1 minute to reconstitute before slicing.

Cook pasta in vegetable water until al dente. Drain well. Add blanched vegetables (except sun-dried tomatoes) to skillet with onions and vermouth. Stir in pasta. Add about half minced herbs. Season to taste with pepper, lemon juice and lightly with salt, if desired.

Garnish with sundried tomatoes and remaining herbs and serve. Pass grated cheese separately. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

“Tortilla pieces are layered with vegetables, cheese, and Tomato Sauce with Ancho Chiles and Roasted Garlic to make robust and hearty individual casseroles. Use individual crocks or 6- to 8-ounce ramekins.”

VEGETABLE CHILAQUILES

1 teaspoon cumin seeds

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 medium red onion, diced

3 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 (or more) jalapeno chile, optional

2 stalks celery, diced

1 carrot, diced

1 red potato, cut in chunks

Salt, pepper

10 to 12 corn tortillas, fresh or day-old

1/2 cup peanut oil

Tomato Sauce With Ancho Chiles and Roasted Garlic

4 ounces Jack cheese, shredded

4 ounces Cheddar cheese, shredded

1/2 pint sour cream

Cilantro sprigs

Salsa of choice

Roast cumin seeds in dry skillet until fragrant. Grind in spice mill.

Heat olive oil in large skillet. Saute red onion until translucent. Add garlic, jalapeno chile and cumin seeds. Cook briefly. Add celery, carrot and potato. Stir in 1/4 cup water. Cover and reduce heat. Simmer until vegetables are tender, 8 to 10 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Cut tortillas into strips or 2-inch wedges (or whatever shape will fit well into 4 to 6 individual shallow ramekin dishes). Heat peanut oil in large skillet until hot enough to sizzle when tortilla pieces are dropped in. Cook tortilla pieces in batches, layer at time, until slightly roasted but not crisp. Drain on paper towels.

Cover bottom of 4 to 6 ramekins with 1/3 of Tomato Sauce With Ancho Chiles and Roasted Garlic. Add layer of 1/3 tortilla pieces, half of vegetables and 1/3 shredded cheeses. Repeat with another layering of sauce, tortillas, vegetables and cheeses. Top with remaining tortillas, red sauce, cheeses and sour cream.

Bake at 350 degrees until dish is heated through, about 10 minutes if all ingredients are still hot, 30 minutes if ingredients have been allowed to cool off.

Garnish with cilantro sprigs and serve with favorite salsa. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Note: Dish may be constructed in one large casserole. Other vegetables may be substituted: fennel, eggplant, summer squashes, winter squashes. If cooking times vary significantly add them in sequence or cook separately and add in.

“This is one delicious chile sauce. My Mexican chef consultant makes it without the tomatoes, simply stewing the chiles and later blending them, but I prefer it with the tomatoes. If you add one ingredient at a time, you can see what each one does. To the viny tomatoes the chiles add a piquant quality; the roast garlic lends richness, earthiness, depth, body; the oregano adds vibrancy, spice; the vinegar brings up all the flavors.”

Tomato Sauce With Ancho Chiles And Roasted Garlic

2 heads garlic, unpeeled but separated into cloves

3 to 4 dried ancho or pasilla chiles

2 pounds canned tomatoes, blended

1 to 2 teaspoons dried oregano

Red wine or Sherry vinegar

Sort garlic cloves and discard smallest ones. Cut large cloves in halves, leaving skins on all cloves. Spread garlic cloves on oiled baking sheet and bake about 15 to 30 minutes until insides are tender (skins may brown a bit). Remove from oven and cool. (Don’t try to speed up cooking by baking at higher temperature. Garlic really can explode like popcorn when baked at higher temperatures.)

Roast chiles 3 to 4 minutes until puffed up , slightly dried out and fragrant. Do not allow to blacken. Remove from oven. Cut off stems, cut chiles open and remove seeds. Cut into chunks and grind in spice grinder or coffee mill.

Heat tomatoes in saucepan. Add ground chili to taste. (Often ancho chiles, which are comparatively fruity, are not so strong so add 4 to 6 tablespoons.) Peel garlic and blend with about 1 cup tomato sauce. Return to pot and add oregano to taste.

Add vinegar, starting with 1/8 teaspoon at most. (Do not add so much that you taste vinegar, but just enough to brighten flavors.) Salt is probably not necessary.

Use with Vegetable Chilaquiles, grilled polenta, pasta, vegetables, timbales, Mexican omelettes, crepes, potatoes. Makes 3 to 4 cups.

“Loving both potatoes and arugula, I have developed a dish to combine and contrast the splendid features of both; the creamy, soft, earthy quality of the potatoes with the crunchy, juicy, peppery quality of the arugula. Pink-skinned potatoes make an harmonious contrast with the greens. Shallots are the most excellent onion for salads--the only onion my girl friend is willing to eat raw.”

POTATO SALAD WITH ARUGULA AND GARLIC-MUSTARD VINAIGRETTE

2 pounds red potatoes

4 large shallots, thinly sliced

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

1/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground pepper

3 tablespoons Sherry (or balsamic) vinegar

1/2 cup olive oil

1/2 bunch arugula or small spinach

Wash potatoes and cut into bite-size chunks: halves, quarters, eighths, or more depending on size of potatoes. Cook potatoes in boiling, salted water 6 to 8 minutes until tender.

Whisk shallots, garlic, mustard, salt and several grinds pepper with vinegar in large bowl. Whisk in olive oil.

Drain potatoes. Toss into vinaigrette. Cool about 10 minutes.

Cut stems off arugula and if leaves are large, cut in half. (Do whole bunch while together, then wash and spin dry what’s needed.)

Fold arugula into potato salad. Depending on how hot potatoes still are, arugula will cook slightly, soften and sweeten. Let stand 20 to 30 minutes before serving if desired. Adjust salt, pepper and vinegar to taste before serving. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

“I made this soup at a cooking class recently, along with pimiento pizza and pear crisp. Several students thought it was the best part of the dinner. Lentils are like that, ordinary yet winsome. Here is a good one. See what you think.

The simple things you can do that make the soup especially appealing are to grind the seasonings freshly (in a spice grinder or coffee mill), and use a good lemon (organic is possible).”

LENTIL SOUP WITH CUMIN, CORIANDER AND LEMON ZEST

1 cup lentils

8 cups water

Bay leaf

1 medium yellow onion, diced

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 stalks celery, diced

1 large carrot, diced

1 teaspoon freshly ground coriander

1 teaspoon freshly ground cumin

Zest of 1/2 lemon, minced

Salt

Sort through lentils for stones or other debris. Combine in soup pot with water and bay leaf. Bring to boil. Reduce heat, cover and simmer 30 to 45 minutes until lentils are tender.

Add onion, garlic, celery and carrot. Continue cooking 30 to 40 minutes until vegetables are tender. Stir in coriander, cumin and lemon zest. Season to taste with salt. Serve hot. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

Note: If in hurry, saute vegetables separately. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in skillet. Saute onion several minutes until translucent. Add garlic, celery and carrot. Saute 2 more minutes. Add small amount water, cover and simmer until tender. Add to cooked lentils with coriander, cumin and lemon zest. Season to taste with salt.