Totally Briny

When you want reel-y good seafood.

Bayside 240, 240 Portofino Way, Redondo Beach. (213) 374-8043. Style: A place to drop anchor for some serious seafood. Setting: Display kitchen, displayed seafood and panoramic view. Recommended: Menu changes slightly every day but might include smoked salmon pizza; Maryland jumbo lump crab cakes; Costa Rican mahi mahi. Cost per person: $14-$40.

Bedfords, 1583 Spinnaker Drive, Ventura Harbor. (805) 644-3333. Style: Seafood by the seaside. Setting: Pastels indoors; outdoors a covered patio overlooking gorgeous harbor view. Recommended: Hot scallop and spinach salad; oysters Rockefeller; pesto salmon with lime juice in papillote. Cost per person: $20-$25.

Harvest Inn, 550 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale. (818) 956-8268. Style: Swank Chinese specializing in Shanghai seafoods, cold dishes and light sauces. Setting: Plush post-modern with high ceilings and dark banquettes. Recommended: Oysters baked in French sauce; sliced fish in special wine sauce with garlic; sweet and pungent shrimp. Cost per person: $15-$25.

The Seashell, 19723 Ventura Blvd., Woodland Hills. (818) 884-6500. Style: Continental with fish scales. Setting: Tacky 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. Recommended: Scampi du chef; bouillabaisse du pecheur ; mussels poulette. Cost per person: $20-$38.

Senor Fish, 5111 N. Figueroa St., Highland Park. (213) 257-2498. Style: Proof that incredibly good seafood need not cost a fortune. Setting: Former burger shack with patio, picnic tables and stray cats. Recommended: Scallop burrito; fried-fish tacos; caldo siete mares, Mexican bouillabaisse. Cost per person: $3-$6.