Best Wine-Maker: The Also-Rans

In making my choice of the best wine maker of 1990, I considered at least two dozen candidates. To make the job easier, I excluded the first two years’ winners, John Thacher of Cuvaison and Bill Dyer of Sterling.

Coincidentally, Thacher and Dyer work at Napa Valley wineries that are only about 500 yards apart. In fact, Napa Valley wine makers again dominated the candidate list this year, accounting for nine of the 17 runners-up. They were:

* Gary Farrell: Pinot Noirs under his own label from Sonoma County’s Russian River have become legendary; even at $30 a bottle, the best of them sell out quickly. But Farrell, who also makes wine for Davis Bynum, has a brilliant touch with everything. His Chardonnays are delightful, his Sauvignon Blancs sublime, and even his Cabernets, from cool-climate grapes, are stunning.

* Jed Steele, Kendall-Jackson: Perhaps no man this year has had such an impact on style with a single wine as Steele has with his barrel-fermented, slightly sweet Chardonnay. It appeals to a lot of folks--some 300,000 cases are made each year. He also makes 300,000 cases of other wines, including great Zinfandel, Syrah, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet. The only thing Steele has yet to do is make wine under his own label.

* Dick Arrowood, Arrowood Winery: He was the state’s star wine maker for the 15 years he was at Chateau St. Jean. When he left to devote full time to his own operation, some felt he would melt into obscurity. Instead, the wines he’s made on his own are better than anything he ever made at the chateau.

* Ken Deis, Flora Springs: In the last three years, Deis has made some incredible wines, including superb Chardonnays, sublime Cabernets, a grand wine called Trilogy and now a new white wine called Soliloquy. A wine maker on the move.

* George Bursick, Ferrari-Carano: His Chardonnays and Merlots are stunning achievements, and soon-to-be-released vintages are exceptional.

* Ric Forman, Forman: The longtime Napa wine maker is at the top of his art. His latest Chardonnays and Cabernets are among the best in the state.

* Jon Kongsgaard, Newton: Newton’s mountainside vineyards could make hard, unapproachable wines, but Kongsgaard has a deft touch, creating suppleness and age-worthiness in the same bottle.

* Chuck Ortman, Meridian: He was a consultant for literally dozens of Napa Valley wineries. When he moved down to this Paso Robles property, some felt he would be buried. Instead, sensational Santa Barbara and San Luis Obispo grapes are being turned into some of the best wine being made in the Central Coast.

* Ted Bennett, Navarro Vineyards: His Chardonnays and Pinots Noirs, from the cool Anderson Valley, have long been personal favorites, and the amazing dry Gewurztraminers are stunning, but in the last year Bennett’s wines across the board have been better than ever. This is one of the most consistent producers of great wine in the state, though production is small.

* Jack Stuart, Silverado Vineyards: Rarely does Stuart make anything that’s merely very good. The Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc take a back seat only to the Chardonnay, and the Cabernets are among the best made anywhere. This is a wine maker with a sixth sense for quality.

* Michael Martini, Martini Winery: Long known as a producer of delicate, long-lived Cabernets, Martini has recently become--surprise!--a great white-wine producer. His latest couple of Chardonnays and Sauvignon Blancs were excellent, and the red wines are showing more depth than ever.

* Tony Soter, Etude: The wine maker for Spottswoode, Soter also makes superb wines under his own label, and though production is small, Etude wines are truly deep and complex.

* John Williams, Frog’s Leap: For some reason, the efforts of this talented young wine maker have gone largely unrecognized by the wine establishment. His Chardonnays, Zinfandels and Sauvignon Blancs have always been excellent, but his recent Cabernets have been the surprise wines. More about this property to come.

* Doug Shafer, Shafer Vineyards: The son of founder John Shafer may have carved out the best of all Stag’s Leap-area properties for consistency. The lean, delicate Chardonnays are marvelous, but the Cabernets and Merlots have reached heights in the last few years virtually unmatched in the area.

* Greg Upton, Franciscan/Estancia: This energetic young wine maker has turned Franciscan around with a number of top Chardonnays and Cabernets. He also has made Estancia one of the best value brands in California.

* Rick Longoria, Gainey: This Central Coast wine maker has made some striking Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs in the last few years, and his Cabernets are among the best in the region.

* Jim Clendenen, Au Bon Climat: This inventive wine maker produces stylish Chardonnays that are cult items among wine lovers, and his Nebbiolo is excellent.