New Martini Releases

WHEN LOUIS M. MARTINI started his Napa Valley winery in 1938, he told me: “I want to make the best wines in the country.” Three generations later, he’s still pursuing that goal.

Recently, I had dinner with Michael Martini, Louis’ grandson, to taste the new releases. I was particularly intrigued with the first wine, his 1989 Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc ($8), a silky, long, delectable wine of lovely melon aftertastes.

“It’s won three golds and five silvers,” Michael said. “Beyond the classic varietals, with the old white label, we’ve just introduced these Napa Valley Reserve wines--Chardonnay, Petite Sirah and Cabernet Sauvignon. And then there are our vineyard selection wines, with the accent on Monte Rosso,” referring to a Martini vineyard in Sonoma County. Each wine merits wine lovers’ acquisition.

1989 Napa Valley Chardonnay ($9). Gentle, easy-quaffing Chardonnay. This wine is a blend of 55% Napa grapes, 45% from the vineyards of Sonoma.

1988 Russian River Valley Gewurztraminer ($6.99). A real winner. Soft suggestions of grapefruit and roses, from grapes of the Los Vinedos del Rio Ranch in Sonoma County. Don’t miss it.

Napa Valley Reserve 1989 Napa Valley Chardonnay ($14). Delightful, full-bodied wine of 70% Carneros grapes; crisp, apple-ish.

Napa Valley Reserve 1987 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($14). Layered complexity, with grapes from six vineyards, touched with Merlot and Cabernet Franc, worthy of as long as 10 years of aging to reach full maturity.

Vineyard Selection 1987 Merlot--Los Vinedos del Rio ($22). Stylish wine of gentle claret character to be savored with each sip.

Vineyard Selection 1987 Sonoma Valley Cabernet Sauvignon--Monte Rosso ($22). Last, a collector’s item, from the Monte Rosso vineyard and listed among the “Wine Spectator’s” Top 100 Wines for 1990, a Louis Martini masterpiece. Deep, dark ruby, intriguing intensity of flavors. A monumental wine.