Restaurants : Neighborhood Places

. . . where pretension is not on the menu. Fair Price Restaurant, 8341 Tampa Ave., Northridge. (818) 993-3307. Style: Thai-Chinese where Thai takes top billing. Setting: No frills. Recommended: Yum neua, Thai grilled beef salad; tod mun, Thai fish cake; pra merk goong paht prik, shrimp, squid, mint and hot pepper. Cost per person: $9-$15.

Fino, 24530 Hawthorne Blvd., Torrance. (213) 373-1952. Style: Upscale Mediterranean spot whose best pals are garlic and olive oil. Setting: Cozy. Recommended: Menu changes but might include grilled escarole, fried lobster salad, raspberry ganache tart. Cost per person: $15-$30.

Le Triumph, 15535 Devonshire St., Mission Hills. (818) 891-0406. Style: French food that’s old enough to vote. Setting: Preciously pink. Recommended: Feuillete de champignons, mushrooms in pastry; fish soup; rack of lamb Provencale. Cost per person: $17-$28.

Taylor’s Prime Steaks, 3361 West 8th St., Los Angeles. (213) 382-8449. Style: Prime protein without pretensions. Setting: Red vinyl booths; horse prints on the walls. Recommended: filet mignon with cottage fries; New York steak; culotte steak. Cost per person: $12-$18.

Victor’s Delicatessen, 1915 N. Bronson Ave., Hollywood. (213) 464-0275. Style: A deli for the thirtysomethings. Setting: Gray industrial carpeting; black chairs and gallery-white walls. Recommended: Greek salad; penne with prosciutto; meat loaf and mashed potatoes. Cost per person: $7-$17.