A Guide to the Best of Southern California : FOOD : A Day at L’Opera

IT’S DECIDEDLY French: the sidewalk seating under red umbrellas, the bicycle in the window with its basket full of baguettes , the wonderful display of pastries. The glassed-in baking area is designed to allow patrons to watch the French bakers bustle about, creating culinary works of art ranging from the simple croissant ($1.25) to L’Opera cake ($10 to $24), the jewel in the crown of the patisserie array.

Plans are under way to open a cooking school, but owner Estrella Linch’s ultimate goal is higher: “When people think of pastry, I want them to think L’Opera Cafe.”