Stalking the Tame Asparagus

When you prepare asparagus, decisions such as how thick the stalks should be, the proper way to trim ends, and whether to peel the spears are governed more by personal preference than by concrete rules. The same is true for cooking the vegetable: Several methods are acceptable.

Asparagus stalks range from pencil-thin to about one-half-inch thick. Whichever diameter is selected, however, the spears should be straight and firm. Look for those that are bright-green almost their entire length and have tightly closed tips. One pound of asparagus generally yields two servings as a side dish.

It’s best to cook asparagus within a day or two after purchase. In the meantime, cut a small portion from the bottoms and refrigerate the spears upright with the stem ends in water, or wrap the ends in wet paper towels and cover with a plastic bag.

To prepare for cooking, snap off the tough lower ends of the spears where they break easily (Step 1), or cut off the woody ends with a sharp paring knife.

Peeling asparagus spears is optional, but thick spears will cook more evenly if the scales and outer skin are removed. Using an asparagus peeling tool (Step 2), a swivel-bladed vegetable peeler or a sharp knife, peel to within an inch or two of the tips. When using a vegetable peeler, placing the spears on a flat surface is recommended.

Rinse the prepared asparagus well under cold running water to remove any sandy soil that might be hidden in the tips. Cook by one of the following methods.

To boil: Place spears in a wide skillet (Step 3), add one inch water and boil, covered, five to eight minutes, until just tender when pierced. Drain.

To steam: Arrange spears in the top of a steamer (Step 4) or on a rack over boiling water. Cover and steam eight to 12 minutes, just until tender when pierced.

To steam-boil: Loosely tie the spears with string and place in the steamer basket (Step 5), then lower into the steamer (Step 6). There should be enough boiling water in the bottom of the vessel to cover the lower portion of the stalks by about one inch. With this method, the tougher ends of the stalks are boiled and the tender tips steamed.

If an asparagus steamer is not available, the spears may be placed in the bottom of a double boiler and covered with the inverted insert. Steam-boil eight to 12 minutes, just until tender when pierced.

To microwave: Arrange one pound of asparagus in a microwave-safe baking dish so the tips are toward the center. Add two to three tablespoons water, cover and microwave on HIGH (100% power) about five minutes, rearranging the spears about halfway through the cooking time. Allow to stand, covered, another five minutes before serving.

Asparagus spears may be served hot with butter, oil, lemon juice or Hollandaise sauce. They can also be chilled and served with mayonnaise or vinaigrette dressing, which should be added just before serving (the acid in the dressing will turn the spears yellow).

Note: The asparagus peeler and vertical steamer pictured are available at Williams-Sonoma and other specialty cookware stores.

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