Mrs. Knott’s Restaurant: A Chicken in Every Spot

Deep in the heart of tract-home heaven in Irvine is the new Mrs. Knott’s restaurant. It’s the first eating place with the Knott’s name to leave the berry farm in Buena Park.

Years of being clobbered by its giant foe to the south--otherwise known as home of the mouse (and, lately, the embattled frog)--have left Knott’s Berry Farm with little room to expand. Movies seem out of the question, most of the cute marketable characters are taken and Disney has even opened its own fast-food restaurant.

Ah, but Knott’s does have one identifiable tradition: its fried chicken. And, of course, its boysenberry jam.

In its new restaurant, the motto seems to be a chicken in every spot. There are chickens in paintings, chickens in posters, chickens in country pine hutches and on corner ledges.

Over a fireplace, along with several framed family photos, is a portrait of Mrs. Knott herself. Would she approve of the chicken that is being cooked in her name? That’s hard to say. Earlier this week, in the fried chicken dinner--which comes with all the trimmings (rhubarb, mashed potatoes, soup or salad, vegetables and pie)--the chicken itself was moist and tender, but the crust was soggy. Chicken and dumplings came with fine dumplings, but the gravy was too bland. There are also steaks and seafood and pastas on the menu.

What Mrs. Knott would definitely approve of is the service. This is a perky place where customer greeting is down to a science. Everywhere you look there are smiles and hellos from friendly young women in demure, country-print dresses. Even the busboys have the family spirit. “Oh,” said one sadly as he cleared the table, “you didn’t eat your vegetables.”

Mrs. Knott’s, Alton Square Shopping Center, 5465 Alton Parkway, Irvine, (714) 559-8633. Entrees $4.95-$11.95.