Exploring the Wild Rivers Area of New Mexico

In 1968, President Lyndon Johnson signed the Wild and Scenic Rivers Act, a bill that recognized the necessity of protecting America’s rivers. Stating that rivers possess “remarkable scenic, recreational, geologic, historic, cultural, or similar values,” the bill established a way to recognize--and preserve--important watersheds.

One of the first river stretches protected by the act was 48 miles of the Rio Grande in New Mexico--from the Colorado border south to the Taos Junction Bridge. Managed by the U.S. Bureau of Land Management, the Wild Rivers Recreation Area is a fine example of the reasons why the bill was signed into law.

Hikers will be happy to know that the river’s adjacent trail system is nationally recognized as part of the National Recreation Trails System. Twelve miles of trails within the Wild Rivers area have received this honor, which is awarded to paths of national prominence.

Located just an hour’s drive northwest of Taos, on the high-country Taos Plateau, the recreation area is complete with a designated National Back Country Byway and a dozen hiking trails. The magnificent 800-foot gorge cut by the mighty river offers breathtaking scenery and a variety of recreational opportunities. Camping, fishing and river rafting are popular here, as well as birding, mountain biking and picnicking.

Dominating the view to the east is New Mexico’s largest, highest mountain range, the 13,000-foot Sangre de Cristos. Named “Blood of Christ” by Spanish padres for its distinctive red coloration (especially remarkable at sunset), the range is the southernmost extension of the Rocky Mountains. To the north, snow-capped Blanca Peak can be seen far in the distance (in Colorado), and 10,120-foot Ute Mountain, an extinct volcano, is prominent to the northeast.

The Back Country Byway through Wild Rivers is a 13-mile loop road that leads through the scenic country. Stop at the Art Zimmerman Visitor Center to view interpretive displays and a selection of publications, and to inquire about guided hikes and campfire talks. The center is staffed only Memorial Day through Labor Day, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.

For a good introduction to the natural features of the area, take the half-mile La Junta Point Nature Trail, which begins 1 3/4 miles south of the visitor center. The well-interpreted trail (pick up a guide at the visitor center) provides a pleasant saunter along the rim of the gorge.

The most scenic overlook in the area is at La Junta Point Overlook, where the Red River intersects with the Rio Grande. The confluence of the two rivers is the deepest part of the gorge, some 840 feet below the rim.

Hikers who want to head into the canyon have their choice of several trails. Big Arsenic Springs is one of the most popular. Dropping 640 vertical feet in one mile, the descent is relatively easy, but because the elevation of the Taos Plateau is 7,500 feet above sea level, the return climb can be arduous.

Legend has it that a hermit who once lived here dubbed the spot “Arsenic Springs” to keep unwanted visitors from bothering him. Today, two trails--”Little” and “Big”--bear the name, but there’s not a trace of the poisonous element around.

The descent from the trail head to the canyon is a journey through two distinctive ecosystems: the sage, pinon pine and juniper found on the rim, and the ponderosa pines, mountain mahogany and lush riparian vegetation within the gorge. This is an example of what botanists call an inverted ecosystem; the cooler temperatures and abundant water of the canyon allow the growth of plants normally seen at higher altitudes.

The geological features of this descent are as interesting as the plant life. This land was formed by volcanic activity some 3 million years ago. En route, river runners (or prospective ones) will get great views of the river’s Class 4, 5 and 6 (difficult to dangerous) rapids.

When you reach the Rio Grande, follow the trail upriver about a half-mile to enjoy the riparian microclimate. Keep a close eye on the rock walls of the gorge and you may glimpse a few petroglyphs left by the early nomadic Indians who populated this area some 12,000 years ago. As with most petroglyph sites, their meaning is subject to interpretation.

You can return the same way or, for a longer trip, continue three miles along the river trail to the La Junta Trail, ascend 1 1/4 miles to the rim, then walk back along the road to the trail head.

To reach Wild Rivers Recreation Area, head northwest out of Taos on Highway 64, continuing north on Highway 522 to the tiny town of Cerro. Join the Wild Rivers Recreation Area turnoff at New Mexico 378, and follow this road that winds high above the river into the recreation area and on to the visitor center.

La Junta Point, Big Arsenic Spring Trails Where: Wild Rivers Recreation Area. Distance: 1-10 miles round trip. Terrain: Magnificent Taos Plateau, Rio Grande gorge. Highlights: Grand panoramas and up-close views of Rio Grande, petroglyph sites, Backcountry Byway through recreation area. Degree of Difficulty: Easy nature trail on rim, but heading down to river gorge can be strenuous. Precautions: Wear a hat and bring water; summer temperatures are hot. Official season is late spring to early autumn, but locals hike here most of the year. For more information: Contact the U.S. Bureau of Land Management, Taos Resource Area, 224 Cruz Alta Road, Taos, N.M. 87571, (505) 758-8851