Good Fellas, Good Food

The first thing you notice about the brand-new restaurant is its lack of decor. There are pink tablecloths and black lacquer chairs at Matty’s; the walls look freshly painted. But none of these things give you a sense of the kind of restaurant you are about to eat in.

Then you hear the voice of Frank Sinatra over the stereo speakers--he wants us to forget about tomorrow. A plump guy at the next table, napkin tucked into his shirt like a bib, talks a little too loudly: “Now, I want you to take care of my good friend Paulie.” You look at the menu: scungilli, baked clams, fried shrimp.

This is pure New York Italian. But there is a reason for this. Matty’s has simply taken on the personality of the restaurant that came before it. Just a few weeks ago, Matty’s was Brighton’s. The initial “B,” optimistically etched into the glass of each door when Brighton’s first opened, still remains on Matty’s doors. And the menu is practically unchanged.

But does it really matter? The linguine and clams taste terrific. And the pork chops giganta really are huge. Matty’s may not have a personality of its own yet, but it’s adopted a good one.

Matty’s, 7226 Melrose Ave., Los Angeles, (213) 937-2801.