Hors d’Oeuvres That Go Crunch in the Night

The French call appetizers hors d’oeuvre-- which means “outside of the work.” Unfortunately, most of them require lots of work--more than we ever anticipate when planning a menu.

Many appetizers are not only labor-intensive but also the richest, most caloric part of the meal. Occasionally, they are even the most expensive.

The following recipes are different. They use fresh produce as their base and are light and easy to prepare; they also keep well when made ahead of time. The most expensive ingredients, Belgian endive and smoked salmon, are combined with other ingredients to cut the cost. The Belgian endive leaf (smaller hearts of romaine and Boston lettuce will also work) holds many fillings and can be assembled in advance. If you want to make this appetizer even easier, simply arrange the leaves attractively and place them next to the spreads so that guests can fill them as they desire. (Alternately, the spread and toppings can be served with toasted pita bread or tortilla chips.)

Broiled mushrooms filled with spinach and feta cheese can be assembled in advance and broiled at the last minute. The cucumber sandwich with smoked salmon and tangy cream cheese is easy to handle and looks great on a platter.

Served together, these appetizers would provide a splendid spread for a cocktail party. To make the selection larger, add wedges of cheese surrounded by chilled grapes and slices of fruit.

Belgian endive leaves make the most delicious, crunchy, easy-to-pick-up containers for full-flavored fillings. The following recipes offer three possibilities. One large head of Belgian endive (about three ounces) has about 10 usable large leaves; use the remaining small leaves in salads. Typically, one tablespoon of filling is the right amount for a large Belgian endive leaf.

BELGIAN ENDIVE LEAVES WITH HUMMUS AND SUN-DRIED TOMATOES

2 large cloves garlic, minced

1 (15 1/2-ounce) can garbanzo beans, rinsed with cold water and drained

1 sun-dried tomato, soaked in water, if dehydrated

1/4 cup lemon juice

1/4 cup tahini paste

1/3 cup water

1/2 teaspoon salt

Crushed hot pepper

28 large Belgian endive leaves (from 3 large heads)

Snipped chives or minced parsley, optional

Use blender or food processor to mince garlic and puree garbanzo beans. When beans are as pureed as possible, add sun-dried tomato, lemon juice, tahini paste, water, salt and crushed hot pepper. Puree mixture until very smooth, about 2 minutes in blender, about 4 minutes in food processor. Adjust seasonings to taste. (Can be made day ahead and refrigerated, covered airtight.)

Mix well before using. Fill each leaf with about 1 tablespoon mixture. Garnish with chives. Chill few hours before serving. Makes 28 appetizers.

BELGIAN ENDIVE LEAVES WITH JULIENNED CARROTS AND ZUCCHINI

2 large carrots, cut into fine juliennes

1 medium zucchini, unpeeled, cut into fine juliennes

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

7 large basil leaves, cut into fine juliennes

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

16 large Belgian endive leaves

Combine carrots, zucchini, balsamic and red wine vinegars and basil in small bowl. Toss well to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. (Can be made few hours ahead and refrigerated. Mix well, adjust seasonings and drain any liquid before using.)

Fill each leaf with about 1 tablespoon mixture, spreading out attractively. Place filled leaves on platter. Chill few hours before serving. Makes 16 appetizers.

BELGIAN ENDIVE LEAVES WITH SOUTHWESTERN TOMATOES AND CHEESE

2 large tomatoes

6 tablespoons bottled salsa

2 tablespoons minced red onion

2 ounces smoked gouda cheese, cut into 1/3-inch dice

1 tablespoon lime juice

3 tablespoons minced cilantro leaves

Salt

Cayenne pepper

20 large Belgian endive leaves

Whole cilantro leaves

Cut tomatoes into 1/3-inch dice. Save pulp for sauces or soups. Combine tomatoes, salsa, red onion, cheese, lime juice, minced cilantro and salt and cayenne to taste in 2-cup bowl. Toss gently to combine well. Drain any liquid. Stir well.

Fill each leaf with about 1 tablespoon mixture for each leaf, spreading out attractively. Garnish with cilantro leaves. Place on platter. Chill up to 4 hours. Makes 20 appetizers.

Broiling the mushrooms until they are hot but not oozing is the trick here. Watch them carefully; four minutes does it.

BROILED MUSHROOMS WITH SPINACH AND FETA CHEESE

16 large mushroom caps, stemmed

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 tablespoons lemon juice

2 large cloves garlic, minced

4 cups stemmed young spinach leaves, minced

4 ounces feta cheese, finely diced

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

Place mushrooms single layer on greased baking sheet. Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil. Brush oil lightly around rims of mushrooms.

Combine remaining 1 tablespoon oil, lemon juice, garlic, spinach, cheese and salt and pepper to taste in 2-cup bowl. Adjust seasonings to taste. Fill each mushroom cap with about 1 tablespoon mixture. (Can be assembled 2 hours ahead and refrigerated.)

Broil 8 inches from heat source until mushrooms are heated through but not releasing any liquid, about 4 minutes. Serve hot. Makes 16 mushroom caps.

Crunchy and refreshing, these cucumber sandwiches are elegant without being overwhelming. They can be assembled two hours ahead and refrigerated, or guests can make their own, with all the ingredients in side-by-side bowls.

PICKLING CUCUMBER SANDWICHES WITH SMOKED SALMON

4 ounces light cream cheese

1 tablespoon minced onion

2 teaspoons drained capers

Grated zest of 1 lemon

1/4 teaspoon dried dill

1/2 teaspoon lemon juice

4 (5-ounce) pickling cucumbers, cut into 1/4-inch-thick rounds (use 48 slices, rest in salad)

7 ounces good-quality, thinly sliced smoked salmon, cut with cookie cutter to fit cucumber round

Fresh dill

Combine cream cheese, onion, capers, lemon zest, dill and lemon juice in small bowl. (Can be made day ahead and refrigerated, covered airtight.)

Spread 1 teaspoon cream-cheese mixture evenly into each of 24 cucumber rounds. Top with salmon cut to fit, dividing salmon evenly. Top each with remaining cucumber slice. Garnish with fresh dill. Chill up to 2 hours. Makes about 24 little cucumber sandwiches.