The World of Ribs : Bones of Contentment

There are all sorts of ribs in this world. Big, juicy ribs slow-cooked until the meat is ready to fall off the bone. Slender, crusty ribs that take serious gnawing. Even flat, cross-cut ribs that barely show their bones.

And contrary to what a lot of us think, there’s more to ribs than good old American barbecue. In Turkey, a slab of ribs gets rubbed with mint and garlic, skewered and then slowly cooked over a smoldering fire. In India, yogurt, chiles, garlic and ginger coat lamb ribs before they go on the grill. In Africa, pork back ribs are broiled then simmered in peanut sauce with onions, garlic, coriander seeds and chile oil.

What follows are a few recipes from all over.

Breast of veal is kind of like lean beef spareribs. If you stuff it you make a really minuscule bit of meat look like a banquet.

STUFFED BREAST OF VEAL

1 (6-pound) breast of veal with pocket cut

2 cloves garlic

Salt, pepper

4 cups soft bread crumbs

1 onion, chopped

1/2 cup currants

1/3 cup chopped Italian parsley

1 (1 1/2-ounce) package pine nuts, toasted

1/2 cup butter, melted

1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons white wine

1 cup water

Carrot and onion chunks, optional

2 tablespoons flour

Chicken stock

Rub veal breast exterior and inside of pocket with 1 cut clove garlic. Season pocket to taste with salt and pepper.

Combine bread crumbs, onion and remaining clove garlic, minced, in large bowl. Mix in currants, parsley, pine nuts, 1/4 cup melted butter and 2 tablespoons white wine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix well. Stuff mixture into pocket of veal breast. Pin or truss pocket closed.

Place veal breast in roasting pan. Drizzle 2 tablespoons melted butter over top of veal and broil until browned. Turn, drizzle with remaining 2 tablespoons melted butter and brown other side.

Pour remaining 1/2 cup wine and water into roasting pan. Add chunks of carrot and onion. Cover pan tightly and roast at 350 degrees 1 1/2 hours.

Remove veal from pan and keep warm. Pour off all but 3 tablespoons drippings and reserve. Stir flour into drippings left in pan and cook 2 to 3 minutes.

Stir reserved drippings back into pan and heat until thickened. Thin, if necessary, with chicken stock. Makes 4 to 6 servings.