A Worldly Bass

There have been a lot of changes at West Hollywood’s Moustache Cafe recently. There is a new look in the dining room--and there is a new chef.

Geoffrey R. Murray is an American who experienced the cuisines of Asia before apprenticing in France. Later, he cooked in several restaurants in Aspen and Southern California, including Noa Noa in Beverly Hills.

All this traveling around has given Murray an international perspective on cooking--which means he can’t help but throw a few Asian and California touches into Moustache’s French-bistro menu. With a whole farm-raised Virginia striped bass, Murray serves a Pacific Rim-influenced tomato sauce seasoned with ginger, red chiles, soy sauce and honey. The simple, easy-to-make sauce can be used on any grilled meat, fish or shellfish.

For good looks, the dish is garnished with julienne-cut leeks deep-fried in canola oil--the most health-conscious of all vegetable oils. You might try serving the fish with stir-fried vegetables.

For a drink, Murray prefers beer instead of wine with this dish. “Living in Asia for almost two years,” Murray says, “I found that beer goes best with Asian food. Any of the Asian beers--I like Singha from Thailand--are fine. If wine is a preference, a rather strong-flavored white wine, maybe a Riesling, is good.”

MOUSTACHE CAFE’S BASS WITH GINGER SAUCE

1 whole striped bass, scaled and dressed

Salt, pepper

1 tablespoon chopped garlic

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 bunch leeks (white part only), cut in fine julienne

Canola oil

Ginger Sauce

Chives, optional

Lemon wedges, optional

Score fish on both sides with 1/4-inch-deep cross slices. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Rub with garlic inside and out. Place in shallow oven/flame-proof casserole or skillet. Heat olive oil in casserole over medium heat. Add fish and sear until browned on both sides. Bake at 400 degrees 15 to 20 minutes, depending on size and thickness of fish.

Deep-fry leeks in hot canola oil few seconds until crispy and lightly browned. Drain on paper towels. Place fish on platter. Spoon hot Ginger Sauce over fish. Pile leeks on top of fish. Or garnish with chives and lemon wedges.

Makes 4 servings.

Ginger Sauce

1 cup chopped Roma tomatoes

1/4 cup peeled, finely diced ginger root

6 green onions, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon sesame seeds

1 teaspoon crushed hot pepper

1/2 cup soy sauce

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons sesame oil

1 bunch cilantro, leaves chopped

Combine tomatoes, ginger, green onions, sesame seeds, crushed hot pepper, soy sauce, honey, sesame oil and cilantro. When ready to serve, heat sauce over medium heat. Makes about 1 1/2 cups.