A Celebration of Italian Simplicity

It was a hot summer day on the tiny island of Ustica, off the coast of Palermo, Sicily. Powdery, sweet-smelling oleander blossoms perfumed the still air. The aquamarine sea, the rocks, the dusty road leading to the hotel where I was staying, all were at the mercy of the sun--so intense that it caused the air to ripple tangibly. We were in the grip of a heat wave that traveled here from North Africa, a short boat ride away.

That night, at Le Campanelle restaurant, I found it impossible to eat. I felt weak, my appetite reduced and withered to nothing. Around me, vacationing Palermitani and the international set, with yachts anchored at the marina, were gaily devouring plates of grilled fish, seafood pasta, lobsters.

The proprietor, with intuitive sense, responded to my plight and, like a family doctor, prescribed a cure. He would bring me, he said, something that would reawaken my appetite and revive me.

The dish he brought, hot pasta tossed with a “salad” of tomatoes and leafy green basil, worked its magic. The acidic edge of the raw tomato, the fragrance of basil, the chewy, golden pasta--all fresh, immediate flavors--brought me back to life. This was my first taste of an Italian summer classic.

Pasta all’insalata , such as the one served to me at Le Campanelle, features freshly cooked, steaming pasta tossed with a cool, uncooked sauce akin to a salad, hence the name. The uncooked sauce is composed of tender, raw vegetables, tomatoes, herbs, cheeses, olives--ingredients that require no further cooking, but that profit by their proximity to gentle heat.

When the heat of the pasta interacts with the “salad,” what occurs is a softening of the raw edges, a release of juices and a heightening of fragrance.

This final “cooking” takes place in the pasta bowl as the pasta is tossed with the salad, blending the two and creating an integrated dish. It is served immediately after tossing--warm rather than hot or cold, vibrant, colorful and as heady as a garden in the noonday sun.

Since that first taste, pasta all’insalata has become one of my favorite hot weather dishes, one that I prepare in countless variations. Although there is little technique to master, here are a few important points to keep in mind when making this dish.

For best results, use only imported dried pasta. Cook it to the al dente stage in plenty of boiling salted water and drain it well in a large, sturdy colander. Do not rinse the pasta or add oil to the cooking water, both unnecessary steps when you are using high-quality imported dried pasta.

Extra-virgin olive oil is a must. The explosion of flavor and perfume that occurs when the oil comes in contact with the hot pasta is one of the joys of pasta all’insalata. Use lemon juice for its tart, sweet flavor; vinegar tends to compromise the texture of the pasta.

Look to capers, olives or red chile pepper to liven up flavors; anchovies, tuna packed in olive oil or water, or slivers of fine-quality spicy salami may be added. Cheeses that work well include all the fresh, lean ones such as ricotta, mozzarella and goat cheese, called caprino in Italy. Freshly picked herbs are especially tantalizing in this context--the warmth of the pasta intensifies their scent.

Indulge in all the sweet and tender vegetables of the season, selecting only those that can be eaten straight from the earth--sweet peppers, carrots, celery, red onion, tender little zucchini.

Above all, keep in mind that simplicity characterizes true Italian cooking. Limit the ingredients to a few well-chosen ones and you will be rewarded for your restraint.

Follow the pasta with a bowl of rosy peaches strewn with lemon leaves, a few almonds in their shells and accompanied by mineral water or cool wine.

Avocados are synonymous with California. In the Ventura hills where I live, overlooking the Pacific, every variety of avocado can be found growing in gardens and groves. In this dish, diced avocado is spooned over hot pasta that has been tossed with a tomato salad and a splash of tart, aromatic lemon juice.

PASTA ALL’INSALATA WITH DICED AVOCADO

1 1/2 pounds tomatoes, cored and finely diced

1/2 small red onion, finely diced

1 clove garlic, finely chopped

2 tablespoons capers, drained

12 basil leaves, cut in fine julienne

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 lemons

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 pound imported tubetti, or other dried pasta

1 large firm-ripe avocado

Combine tomatoes, onion, garlic, capers, basil, olive oil and juice of 1 lemon in pasta serving bowl. Stir to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

Cook pasta until al dente in abundant boiling salted water.

Peel and pit avocado. Finely dice avocado pulp and toss with remaining lemon juice and salt to taste.

Drain pasta well. Toss with tomato mixture. Spoon avocado and lemon juice over pasta and serve immediately. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

SUMMER-DAY PASTA

1 pound imported fusilli, or other dried pasta

Salt

6 to 8 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 young carrots, finely diced

2 stalks celery, stalks and leaves finely diced

1/2 small red onion, finely diced

1 pound tomatoes, cored and diced

2 to 3 very small zucchini, ends trimmed, finely diced

Handful basil leaves, cut in fine julienne

Few tender arugula leaves, cut in thin strips

Freshly ground pepper

Freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese

Cook pasta in abundant salted boiling water until al dente. Drain well and place in pasta serving bowl.

Toss together with olive oil, carrots, celery, red onion, tomatoes, zucchini, basil and arugula. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Sprinkle with little grated cheese and toss again. Pass additional grated cheese at table. Serve immediately or at room temperature. Makes 4 to 6 servings.