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Antonio Tomassi, chef and co-owner of Locanda Veneta and Ca’Brea in Hollywood, cooks the way an artist paints. On his palate: cheese, pancetta and spinach. Now be prepared for the unexpected. “I wanted to create something different with these simple ingredients, so I thought of wrapping cheese with pancetta,” he says. The third element, spinach, ties it all together when used as a bed for appetizer cheese balls. The result: shape, color, texture. Formaggio di capra al pancetta can be served as a warm, main-course spinach salad or as appetizer tidbits.

CA’ BREA FORMAGGIO DI CAPRA AL PANCETTA E SPINACI

10 ounces goat cheese

2 ounces dry-type farmer cheese or ricotta cheese

1/2 pound pancetta, prosciutto or bacon, sliced paper-thin

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 clove garlic, minced

1 pound spinach, cleaned and stems trimmed

Mix goat cheese with farmer cheese until well blended. Form into 1 1/2-inch balls (size of golf balls). Completely wrap with pancetta until completely covered. Chill.

Heat olive oil in skillet with garlic. Add spinach and saute until barely tender. Set aside.

Place pancetta appetizers on broiler pan and broil 3 to 4 inches from heat source until pancetta is crispy outside and cheese is somewhat melted inside. Serve over spinach. Makes 12 appetizer servings, or 10 servings.

Note: For bite-size appetizers, omit spinach, form cheese balls into 1/2-inch rounds, wrap with pancetta and bake as directed. Serve with wood picks.