Stunning Tuttomare Is Now on a Steadier Course

Spectrum Foods’ Tuttomare, in the building that formerly housed Savannah Grill, has long been one of the most stunning local restaurants, but one that was somewhat marred by inconsistencies during its first years.

No more. Business is booming at this Fashion Island hot spot, thanks to the steady hands of manager Claudio Arena and Piedmontese chef Corrado Gianotti.

Sink your teeth into good appetizers like misto mare marinato, once called insalata di mare (the name was changed because too many patrons thought there would be lettuce in the dish) composed of raw scallop, baby octopus, fresh prawn, cold steamed mussels, and sliced green olive; or the delicate, diatom-thin carpaccio served with a flurry of imported Parmesan cheese.

Good pastas abound. Paglia e fieno alla Cardinale is thin spinach and egg pasta with sun-dried tomatoes and chicken, and there is a wonderfully grainy risotto made with porcini mushrooms. Main dishes, a fair mix of meats and seafoods, are top-flight as well. Go for the free-range chicken encrusted with sage and rosemary and cooked on a rotisserie, or for a fish dish such as canestrelli di chioggia, grilled sea scallops with roasted red peppers. My favorite dish here, though, comes from far from the sea. It’s tagliata alle erbe aromatiche, thinly sliced New York steak with cannellini beans and green herbs. It’s like eating the world’s best cowboy steak and beans.

You won’t be disappointed when it’s time for dessert, either. The restaurant serves what may be the county’s best cappuccino--a frothy masterpiece--and sweets such as crostata al limone, a racy lemon tart with sweet meringue, and a classic tiramisu, ladyfingers with espresso, mascarpone cheese, marsala wine and powdered cocoa.

There have been a few minor design additions, but the beautiful character of the Savannah Grill has been retained: the deep-hued wooden columns; elaborate French windows; long, luxuriously crafted bar, and the stunning inlaid marble floor.

Tuttomare (which means “everything from the sea”) is actually somewhat limited in its seafood offerings, but it still manages to be one of the best Italian restaurants around.

Tuttomare, 545 Newport Center Drive, Newport Beach. (714) 640-6333. Open Monday to Thursday, 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Friday, Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to midnight; Sunday, 5 to 10 p.m.