It’s in the Bag

En papillote is the French term used to describe food steamed in an envelope of parchment paper. This is a particularly good technique for preparing delicate foods such as fish or shellfish.

The parchment seals in the natural juices and flavor. Because very little fat is necessary, this method is excellent for those on restrictive diets.

Parchment paper is sold by the roll at some supermarkets and in rolls and sheets at most cookware specialty stores. Brown paper bags should not be substituted; many of these are now made with recycled paper, which contains chemicals that could be hazardous to your health.

Traditionally the parchment is cut into a heart shape. The paper needs to be at least two inches larger than the food it will encase.

Begin by folding the sheet of parchment in half. Using scissors, start at the fold and cut a half heart (Step 1). You may want to lightly draw a guideline with a pencil and cut just inside this line.

Open the paper and brush it lightly with melted butter or oil. Place the fish on the bottom half about an inch from the fold, then top with the desired flavoring ingredients (Step 2).

Cover the food with the top half of the parchment (Step 3), then beginning at the center fold near the top of the heart, hold the edges together and make a fold in a small portion of the edge. Crease the paper, then fold over again.

Hold this fold with one hand and use the other to make a second fold, overlapping the first. Continue making these pleats as you work around the packet (Step 4).

Securely close the tip by twisting several times. Brush the outside of the packet with melted butter or oil (Step 5) before placing it on a baking sheet.

As the packet bakes, it will brown and puff, so the paper must be folded securely to withstand the stress. Although a small amount of moisture evaporates through the paper, most of it is retained.

Serve the packets directly from the oven, letting the diners cut or tear them open to release the steam and aroma (Step 6). If desired, precooked rice or partially cooked vegetables may be added to the packets to turn them into a one-dish meal.

TROUT EN PAPILLOTE

Melted butter or oil

4 trout, cleaned

8 thin onion slices

8 thin lemon slices

Salt, pepper, optional

Minced fresh herbs (dill, thyme or green onions)

Fold 4 large parchment sheets in half. Using scissors, start at fold and cut half heart shape from each sheet.

Open papers and brush lightly with melted butter. Place 1 trout on bottom half of each paper, about inch from fold. Top each fish with 4 alternating slices of onion and lemon and season to taste with salt, pepper and herbs.

Cover food with top half of parchment, then beginning at center fold near top of heart, hold edges together and make fold in small portion of edge. Crease paper, then fold over again.

Hold fold with one hand and make another, overlapping first. Continue making pleats around edge of packet.

Twist tip several times to close securely. Repeat procedure for remaining 3 portions. Brush outside of packets with melted butter and place on baking sheet.

Bake at 350 degrees 15 to 20 minutes, until parchment is puffed and brown. Remove from oven and place packets on serving dishes. Break or cut open at table. Makes 4 servings.