Pick a Pint of Peppers

These days our local farmers market is a pepper lover’s heaven. There is an incredible variety of these kitchen gems, both hot and sweet. Besides the familiar sweet red and green peppers, there are slightly sweeter fresh pimientos and pale green Hungarian peppers. Attracting the most attention are the small, tapered, bright red “lipstick peppers,” touted as the sweetest.

Plenty of chiles of many types and colors are out in force--round, red-hot cherry peppers, yellow chiles, small serrano chiles and larger red and green jalapenos. Sellers offer samples, and adventurous shoppers taste the hot chiles raw. The slim, tiny Thai peppers remind me of what a friend from Bangkok told me. She said that the Thai way of saying “Good things come in small packages” is “The smaller the pepper, the hotter the taste.”

There are mild chiles too--long, pointed, light green Anaheim chiles, also known as California chiles or sometimes just “green chiles.”

This bounty of peppers is not limited to farmers markets. At this time of year, supermarkets are featuring more types of peppers and chiles than ever at the best prices of the year.

A tasty and easy way to cook peppers and chiles of all types is to roast, broil or grill them. The first time I saw this done was when I lived in the Middle East. I was visiting my neighbor and was surprised to see her placing a red pepper on the burner of her stove. She showed me how she roasted the pepper over the burner’s flame until its skin turned black, and after a few minutes she peeled the skin off easily. The pepper’s flesh was bright red and tender, and it had a wonderful aroma and a more intense flavor than when raw. It was a fascinating trick.

After experimenting with this technique I found that, for even cooking, it’s easier to use the broiler or the grill if you happen to be barbecuing. Whichever method you use, you need to turn the pepper frequently with tongs. Once the pepper’s skin has blackened, the pepper needs to be placed in a bowl and covered or placed in a bag and sealed, so the steam can force the skin away from the flesh.

Whether hot or sweet, grilled peppers are treasures in the kitchen, adding flavor, color and a fresh touch to whatever food they’re paired with. Cut grilled peppers into wide strips, sprinkle them with olive oil and lemon juice, garnish them with olives and you have a fine appetizer in the Mediterranean style.

Mix diced grilled sweet peppers or chiles with cooked rice or pasta, or add them to a vinaigrette for spooning over grilled chicken breasts or fish fillets. Or use grilled red or green peppers in salads of all types. They will give even a standard chicken or tuna salad a lively new look.

These Provencal peppers are wonderful as a first course with French or Italian bread or as a side dish with grilled chicken. If you want to serve them immediately rather than marinating them for 30 minutes, omit the garlic.

GRILLED MARINATED PEPPERS

2 sweet red peppers, roasted and peeled

2 green peppers, roasted and peeled

1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 to 2 teaspoons lemon juice

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

4 large cloves garlic, cut into quarters, optional

12 black olives, optional

Cut peppers into quarters or wide strips. Pat dry and place in shallow serving dish.

Whisk olive oil with lemon juice. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Pour over peppers and sprinkle with garlic. Let stand at room temperature, turning occasionally, 30 minutes, or refrigerate overnight. Remove garlic. Serve peppers at room temperature, garnished with black olives. Makes 4 servings.

Roasted jalapeno chiles make this sauce hot, but the sweetness of the sweet red or green peppers and the onion balance their fire. The sauce is a lively complement for grilled, broiled or sauteed fish, chicken or turkey breasts, and for zucchini, eggplant, rice and pasta.

ROASTED PEPPER AND TOMATO SAUCE

1 green pepper

1 sweet red pepper

3 jalapeno chiles

3 tablespoons olive oil

1 large onion, minced

1 pound ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped, or 1 (28-ounce) can plum tomatoes, drained and chopped

2 medium cloves garlic, minced

3 tablespoons minced cilantro or parsley

2 teaspoons paprika

Cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon salt

Grill or roast under broiler green and red peppers and jalapeno chiles until skins are black, turning with tongs. Let peppers stand in sealed bag or covered bowl and cool slightly. Peel. Dice green and red peppers 1/2-inch and jalapenos about 1/4-inch.

Heat olive oil in large skillet over medium heat. Add onion and cook 7 minutes. Add tomatoes, grilled peppers, garlic, cilantro, paprika, cayenne to taste, cumin and salt. Cook, uncovered, stirring often, about 15 minutes or until sauce is thick. (Sauce can be kept, covered, 2 days in refrigerator. Reheat in covered saucepan over low heat.) Makes 4 servings.

Serve this quick, easy, delicate dish as an appetizer or an accompaniment for chicken or fish.

COUSCOUS WITH ROASTED PEPPERS, WALNUTS AND HERBS

1 small sweet red pepper, roasted and peeled

1/4 cup olive oil

1 cup couscous

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 cup boiling water

1 teaspoon lemon juice

3 tablespoons chopped parsley

1/2 cup walnut pieces, toasted

3 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh basil or cilantro

Basil or cilantro sprigs for garnish

Cut red pepper into 2x1/4-inch strips. Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in large skillet over medium-low heat. Add couscous and dash salt and pepper and stir with fork until blended. Remove from heat and shake skillet to spread couscous in even layer. Pour boiling water evenly over couscous. Immediately cover skillet tightly and let stand 5 minutes. Fluff with fork.

Drizzle lemon juice and remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil over couscous. Add pepper strips, parsley, walnuts and chopped basil. Toss mixture. Taste and adjust seasonings. Serve couscous hot or at room temperature, garnished with basil sprigs. Makes 4 servings.

Note: Toast walnuts at 350 degrees or in toaster oven 5 to 7 minutes until very lightly browned.