Learning to Cook : First Courses : Food of the Goddesses

Some of us learned to cook from our mothers. Some of us learned to cook in spite of our mothers. Actually, our mothers didn’t have all that much to do with the process--as the following stories prove.

Although we all came to cooking via different paths, all of us vividly remember the first foods that we cooked. And while they’re not generally dishes that we find ourselves cooking up every day, when we recently tested these recipes, we found, somewhat to our surprise, that they are all delicious.

I hated my junior high school foods class. The kitchen appliances were intimidating monsters, and my cooking partner was a bossy, impatient girl who made me feel like a dunce. Much, much later, the desire to cook became an obsession. I figured the easiest way to start was with salads. Dressings are simple to make, and there’s leeway for mistakes.

This recipe for Green Goddess Salad was one of my early favorites. It came from a book called “Twelve Company Dinners,” which is packed with great menus and recipes explained in such detail that you can’t fail. I do remember, however, becoming so fatigued from these unfamiliar tasks that I would have to lie down before I could eat.

“Twelve Company Dinners” was long out of print when a friend loaned me a copy. I managed to get my own copy through a book search. Over the years, I’ve seen it several times in used book shops, most recently somewhere in Pasadena. The author is Margo Rieman, and the publisher is Simon & Schuster.

GREEN GODDESS DRESSING

1 cup mayonnaise

1 clove garlic

2 tablespoons anchovy paste

3 tablespoons minced chives or green onion tops

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Salt, pepper

3 tablespoons tarragon vinegar

1/4 cup chopped parsley

1/2 cup whipping cream

Romaine lettuce

Combine mayonnaise, garlic, anchovy paste, chives, lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste, tarragon vinegar, parsley and whipping cream in blender. Process 20 seconds. (Or crush garlic and add to mayonnaise, along with anchovy paste. Add parsley and chives. Add other ingredients and beat thoroughly with rotary beater.) Chill, covered, before using. Serve over torn romaine lettuce. Makes about 1 2/3 cups.