Welcome Back, Casserole

Casseroles once occupied the middle of most tables. Then sophisticated foods assumed undue importance and casseroles began to disappear. Now, though, they’re making a comeback.

This may be because we’ve come to understand that we don’t need huge servings of meat, fish or poultry to stay healthy; three- to four-ounce portions are adequate. We’ve also come to realize that vegetables, potatoes and pasta are essential components of our diets. But I think there are other reasons for the casserole comeback.

In the first place, it’s nice to know that the center of the meal is completely prepared, that it includes the meat and vegetables and often a starch, and that the only last minute detail is oven reheating.

In the second place, casseroles tend to be inexpensive (they can often include left-overs). And comforting.

Even still, many resist casseroles, thinking that they are unnecessarily fat-laden and time-consuming to prepare. But that’s not always the case.

The following casseroles revive ideas from the past, updating them just enough to make them appealing to today’s tastes. One is a low-calorie version of a high-fat classic. If you try one, you’ll see that the good old days were better than you thought.

Although the ingredient lists may look long, the preparations aren’t terribly time-consuming and shortcuts are employed as much as possible.

To give a casserole style, use an attractive baking dish. I prefer shallow shapes so that each portion includes an adequate amount of the topping. But almost any shallow oven-proof dish would be an aesthetic improvement over the ordinary nine-inch square (a nine-inch square baking pan has a 6 1/2-cup capacity, which is just about the right size for four to six servings). Remember that if the material is thicker, the cooking time may be longer.

Here, all the appealing ingredients of the Reuben sandwich are layered in a casserole. As long as tomatoes are sun-ripened and sweet, by all means use them, substituting one cup juiced and chopped fresh tomatoes for the canned. Serve the Reuben casserole with corn relish, spiced apple rings, sliced sweet-sour cucumber salad and crusty rolls for a super supper. Salami, ham or cooked sausage can be used in place of the corned beef, if you have them on hand.

BAKED REUBEN

8 ounces egg noodles

2 tablespoons butter or margarine, melted

Salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 (16-ounce) jar sauerkraut, drained

1/2 pound corned beef, trimmed of all visible fat, torn into bite-size shreds

1/3 cup mayonnaise

1/3 cup chili sauce

1 (16-ounce) can whole tomatoes, chopped and well-drained

1 cup shredded Swiss cheese

1/2 cup soft bread crumbs (preferably rye or wheat)

Cook noodles according to package instructions and drain. Toss with 1/2 tablespoon melted butter in bowl. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Layer noodles in bottom of 9-inch square baking pan or shallow 6 1/2-cup baking dish. Arrange layer of sauerkraut over noodles, then top with corned beef.

Combine mayonnaise with chili sauce. Spread over corned beef. Top with tomatoes, then cheese. (Can be made ahead to this point and refrigerated overnight, covered airtight. Let come to room temperature before baking.)

Toss bread crumbs with remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons melted butter. Sprinkle evenly over cheese. Lightly season with salt and pepper. Bake at 350 degrees, uncovered, until hot and bubbly, 25 to 30 minutes. Serve hot. Makes 4 servings.

This old-time casserole is based on another popular sandwich. Warm applesauce, a dish of sliced sweet cucumber pickles and a tossed green salad round out a delicious Sunday night supper featuring this casserole.

SLOPPY JOE CASSEROLE

1 pound lean ground chuck

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon oil, optional

1/2 cup chopped onion

1 large clove garlic, minced

1 medium green pepper, chopped

1 1/2 cups fresh corn (raw or cooked), frozen (thawed) or canned corn, drained

1 (6-ounce) can Italian seasoning tomato paste

1 1/2 cups beef broth

1 teaspoon chili powder

1 teaspoon ground cumin

Scant 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

5 1/2 ounces rotini pasta (about 2 cups), cooked according to package directions

1 cup shredded sharp Cheddar cheese

Heat 12-non-stick saute pan over medium-high heat. Stir-fry meat with 1/4 teaspoon salt until browned, about 3 minutes. Remove meat with slotted spoon and set aside.

Drain all but 1 tablespoon fat or add oil as necessary to make that amount. Cook onion, garlic and green pepper over medium heat until tender-crisp, about 4 minutes.

Reduce heat to low. Add corn, tomato paste, beef broth, chili powder, cumin, remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and cayenne. Simmer, uncovered, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.

Add reserved meat and pasta to corn mixture. Toss to combine. Adjust seasonings to taste. Transfer to 9-inch square baking pan or shallow 6 1/2-cup baking dish. (Can be made day ahead, covered airtight, and refrigerated or frozen as long as 3 months. Let come to room temperature before baking.)

Bake at 350 degrees, uncovered, 25 minutes. Sprinkle cheese evenly over top. Bake until cheese is melted, about 10 minutes. Serve hot. Makes 4 to 5 servings.

This is the ubiquitous chicken casserole from yesteryear in lower-calorie form; it’s missing the cream that usually forms the sauce. Light and appealing, it’s perfect served with spiced peaches or homemade chutney and a crisp vegetable slaw. If you’re cooking the chicken specifically for the casserole, a 3 1/2-pound chicken will fill the bill. Cooked turkey is easily substituted for the chicken.

SHERRY CHICKEN CASSEROLE WITH CORN, PEAS AND CELERY

2 cups fresh (raw or cooked) corn, frozen (and thawed) or canned corn, drained

1 cup frozen tiny peas, thawed

3 ounces egg noodles, cooked according to package instructions, drained

3 cups cooked chicken, cut into 1 1/2-inch cubes

Sauce

Salt, pepper

Hot pepper sauce

1 cup fresh bread crumbs

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

1 tablespoon butter or margarine, melted

Combine corn, peas, egg noodles and chicken with Sauce in bowl. Mix to combine. Season to taste with salt, pepper and hot pepper sauce. Transfer to greased 2 1/2-quart casserole or souffle dish, spreading top evenly.

Combine bread crumbs, Parmesan cheese and melted butter in small dish. Toss to mix. Spread topping evenly over casserole. (Can be made day ahead, covered airtight, and refrigerated or frozen up to 3 months. Let come to room temperature before baking.)

Bake at 350 degrees, uncovered, until hot and top is golden brown, about 40 to 50 minutes. Let stand 10 minutes before serving. Serve hot. Makes 6 to 8 servings.

Sauce

3 tablespoons unsalted butter or margarine

1/2 cup thinly sliced celery

1/2 cup chopped onion

8 medium mushrooms, quartered

3 tablespoons flour

1/4 cup dry Sherry

3 cups chicken broth

Generous dash ground nutmeg

Few drops hot pepper sauce

Freshly ground pepper

Heat butter in 2-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Add celery, onion and mushrooms. Cook until vegetables are tender, about 5 minutes, stirring often. Sprinkle flour over vegetables and stir to combine. Slowly add Sherry and chicken broth to pan. Stir constantly until thick and smooth, about 3 minutes. Add nutmeg, hot pepper sauce and pepper to taste. Transfer to large mixing bowl.

Friends of the Casserole

Here are some quick additions that will transform even the simplest casserole into a memorable meal:

* Condiments of all kinds--pickled vegetables, chutneys, relishes, spiced fruits and compotes, even applesauce.

* Do-ahead salads such as slaws, sliced sun-ripened tomatoes, salads composed of sturdy ingredients such as cucumbers, carrots and jicama. Shower them with fresh herbs at the last minute.

* Quality breads--bakery baguettes, home-baked muffins, zucchini bread, popovers and biscuits. Softened sweet butter and cheese spreads add an interesting touch.