Few islands on earth compare with the...

Few islands on earth compare with the beauty of Kauai--Hawaii’s Garden Isle. Fields of sugar cane bend with breezes blowing in from the Pacific; waterfalls spill from towering peaks, and lacy rainbows arch over verdant valleys grown over with taro. And while Kauai no longer remains the sleepy tropical paradise it once was, Mayor JoAnn Yukimura, an environmentalist, is determined that it won’t be savaged by developers who have bruised so much of Maui, turning lovely beachfront property into row after row of condominiums. Born and reared on Kauai, Yukimura says she intends to save her island from overdevelopment so long as she is mayor.

On the Road: Old Hawaii exists. On Kauai, Kuini Contrades (pictured on page L1), with her sons and daughters, barbecues chicken next door to the Baptist Church in the village of Anahola, which is eight miles north of Kapaa on Kuhio Highway. The grill is set up in an old truck bed, and the chicken is said to be the best on the island. With rice and fresh corn, the meal will cost you $5. Guests dine at picnic tables with a view of the ocean. The Contrades family also serves syrup-flavored shaved ice in cups and strings orchid leis that they sell to passersby.

Across the two-lane country highway, crowds line up at a stand which turns out 14 types of hamburgers that islanders drive miles for. One burger is smothered in teriyaki sauce and topped with thick slabs of Cheddar cheese and pineapple. Ono Char-Burger has attracted the likes of Sylvester Stallone, Billie Jean King, Walter Cronkite and other celebrities. Look for the bright red stand with the lineup of cars at Anahola.

Smoothies: A few miles beyond Anahola (on the same highway), Christian Marston and his wife Haunani (she’s a former Miss Hawaii) serve marvelous crepes, fresh-baked chocolate cookies and “smoothies” prepared with whipped bananas, papaya, guavas, strawberries, pineapples, coconut and passion fruit. Look for their sign: Waiakalua Fruit & Flowers. Besides crepes, cookies and smoothies, the Marstons sell leis, plants and fresh-cut flowers (boxed for shipping). Telephone (808) 828-6608.

Banana Joe’s: Nearer to Princeville and Hanalei, Banana Joe’s is famous across Kauai for Joe’s frozen-fruit frosties (bananas, papaya, pineapple and other farm-fresh fruit mixed in a blender). Joe Halasey, 38, who grew up in Southern California, is the happiest haole on Kauai. With his wife Cynthia and his parents (his dad is a retired Redondo Beach physician), Joe mixes banana and coconut milkshakes, prepares Thai and rice salads, stocks passion fruit syrup, coconut syrup, guava jelly and keeps the oven hot turning out fresh-baked mango and banana bread. A great luncheon/snack stop on the drive from Kapaa to Hanalei. To order ahead, call 828-1092. Details by writing to Banana Joe’s, P.O. Box 407, Kilauea, Kauai, Hawaii 96754.

Riverside B&B;: Ikena Nani Loa is a bed and breakfast compound that overlooks Kauai’s romantic Wailua River. A two-bedroom cottage rents for $65. Accommodations in a three-bedroom home start at $45. Other units in a two-story townhouse with private entrance, a king-size bed, kitchen, a couple of decks for viewing the valley. The Wailua River runs in a jungle-like setting below this peaceful hideaway. Mt. Waialeale looms in the background. Ikena Nani Loa is less than three miles into the hills from the beach at Kapaa. Units are supplied with ice chests, beach chairs, map, towels. Loads of books. A garden-like setting with fruit trees, flowers, a swimming pool. The hostess is Marion Penhollow, a fifth-generation Kauaian who provides guests with tips on sightseeing, hiking, riding, boating, water skiing, golfing.

Ikena Nani Loa, 139 Royal Drive, Kapaa, Kauai, Hawaii 96746, (808) 822-4010.

Inn by the Beach: Bargain hunters are checking in at the Garden Island Inn near the Westin Kauai Lagoons Resort and Kalapaki Beach. This is a 21-room hotel. Newly renovated. Cable TV, wet bars, refrigerators, coffee makers, ceiling fans. Faces Nawiliwili Harbor, where inter-island cruise ships dock. Only a couple of miles from Lihue Airport. Nothing fancy. Just clean and friendly.

Garden Island Inn, 3445 Wilcox Road, Lihue, Kauai, Hawaii 96766, (808) 245-7227. Rates: $45/$85.

Less than five minutes away, the newly renovated Kauai Inn is Old Hawaii with modern amenities. Forty-eight rooms in a peaceful setting below Mt. Keopaweo. About a five-minute hike from Kalapaki Beach. Last year, the owners spent nearly $3 million upgrading the inn. Rooms were spiffed up, a swimming pool was added. Each room contains a refrigerator/microwave oven, ceiling fan. Manager Jerry Joy promises guests “real aloha spirit along with a sense of the Hawaii of yesterday.” Clean, comfortable, friendly.

Kauai Inn, 2430 Hulemalu Road, Lihue, Kauai, Hawaii 96766, (808) 245-2720. Rates: $65/$85, including a continental breakfast served poolside.

Dining/Entertainment: A number of restaurants are close to the Garden Island Inn and the Kauai Inn, including J.J.’s Broiler, Duke’s Canoe Club and Club Jetty. Club Jetty, which faces Nawiliwili Harbor, is a legend on Kauai. A waterfront joint with plastic-covered chairs, Formica tables, ceiling fans. Live music, a couple of pool tables. Barbecued ribs, vegetable/shrimp tempura, chicken, burgers, steak, fish. A few years ago, a hurricane blew the roof off Club Jetty. It was found floating in the harbor. A few days later, Club Jetty was back in business. And the band played on.

Across the harbor, the Oar House mixes exotic drinks, serves Puerto Rican tamales, Portuguese sausage dogs, homemade chili. Seven tables, five TV sets. Life preservers hang from the ceiling. Customers line up at an eight-stool bar that looks like a relic from a South Seas gin mill. A hangout for locals and tourists alike who play pool, darts and drink till closing time, which is 2 a.m. It goes without saying that this isn’t a dressy place. Some customers don’t even bother wearing shoes. If you’re looking for atmosphere, this is the place. Only a few steps from the entrance to the Westin Kauai Lagoons. Open daily, 10 a.m.-2 a.m. Telephone 245-4941. Owners Allan and Betty Garner call their watering hole “The Best Little Oar House in Town.”

From the Oar House, it’s a five-minute stroll to Kalapaki Beach Burgers (246-6330) for barbecue-flavored hamburgers, fish and chips, mahi-mahi, teriyaki chicken, French fries, sodas, lemonade, tea, coffee. Cheap, clean and with a deck for viewing Kauai’s flaming sunsets.

Kauai by Air: For an aerial view of Kauai, hitch a ride on a helicopter. Fly down the Na Pali Coast, turn inland to Mt. Waialeale (the wettest spot on earth), hover over valleys/villages/Waimea Canyon. At last count there were 15 helicopter companies serving Kauai. Prices vary. Examples:

--Ohana Helicopters, 3220 Kuhio Highway, Lihue 96766, charges $124 for a 50-55-minute trip, $165 for a 65-70-minute flight. Papillon Helicopters does trips for $95 (30 minutes) to $165 (50-55 minutes). The latter is a late-afternoon trip featuring hors d’ouevres, drinks.

For details on air/boat tours and other information, write to the Hawaii Visitors Bureau, 2270 Kalakaua Ave., Suite 801, Honolulu 96815, (808) 923-1811. In Southern California, the HVB office is at 3440 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 502, Los Angeles 90010, (213) 385-5301.

Reader Recommendations

California--Mr. and Mrs. George Loesch, Mission Hills: “Eagle’s Nest, P.O. Box 1003, Big Bear Lake 92315. Rates: $70/$130.”

England--Ivan R. Goldstein: “The Claverley Hotel, 13-14 Beauford Gardens, Knightsbridge, London SW3 1PS. Rates start at about $96.”

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