The Chowder Question: Tomato or Not Tomato

Recreating old American classics is a dangerous, or at least a disappointing practice, at best.

A week ago in Boston I had two versions of New England Clam Chowder. One was the time-honored version: clams with their liquor, salt pork, onion, potatoes and milk. The other version was a creative effort by a young chef that used clams, potatoes, sweet red and yellow pepper strips, white wine, onion, milk and croutons instead of the salt pork. It was a pleasant chowder, but an impostor.

The American Heritage Cookbook gives the following history of New England Clam Chowder: “Several centuries ago, in the coastal villages of France, when a fishing fleet came home, each man threw a share of his catch into a huge copper pot-- la chaudiere-- and the community shared in a feast celebrating the safe return of the fishermen. The tradition found its way to Canada, then drifted down the coast to New England, where la chaudiere became “chowder”--any concoction made of fish or shellfish or both.

“The most famous of the American chowders is Clam Chowder, with its two essential ingredients: clams and salt pork or bacon. But essential is a prickly word. Every New Englander worth his salary independence has his own version of what is essential to Clam Chowder. The most notable heresy is Manhattan Clam Chowder, which calls for water rather than milk--and tomatoes! Down Easters are so nettled over the Tomato Question that the Maine legislature once introduced a bill to outlaw forever the mixing of clams and tomatoes.”

I am confident that the following New England Clam Chowder recipe will not “nettle” any proper Bostonian; it not only has the necessary clams and salt pork, it is very good and reviving on these cool fall days. The Boston Brown Bread Muffins are exactly the same as the wonderful Boston Brown Bread, except they are baked, which is quicker and easier than steaming.

NEW ENGLAND CLAM CHOWDER

3 cups shucked or steamed chowder clams, with juice

1 1/2-inch cube salt pork, diced small

1 onion, finely chopped

2 tablespoons flour

3 medium potatoes, peeled and diced

3 cups milk

2 tablespoons butter

Salt, pepper

Cut clams in small pieces and set aside in juice. Cook salt pork slowly in small skillet until fat has melted and scraps are brown. Strain fat and set scraps aside.

Place 2 tablespoons strained fat in large pot and heat. Add onion and cook slowly until golden. Sprinkle flour over onion and cook, stirring, 3 minutes. Add potatoes and clam juice. Cover and simmer 10 minutes. Add clams and simmer until potatoes are tender, about 10 minutes. Stir in milk and butter. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Heat mixture until butter has melted. Serve with crisp pork bits and coarsely ground pepper on top of each bowl. Makes 6 servings.

BOSTON BROWN BREAD MUFFINS

1/2 cup rye flour

1/2 cup yellow cornmeal

1/2 cup whole wheat flour

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1 egg

1/3 cup molasses

1/3 cup dark brown sugar, packed

1/3 cup oil

1 cup buttermilk

1 cup golden raisins

Using fork, mix together rye flour, cornmeal, whole-wheat flour, salt and baking soda in large bowl until blended. Combine egg, molasses, brown sugar, oil and buttermilk in small bowl. Stir or beat to blend well. Stir egg mixture into flour mixture and mix well. Add raisins and stir to mix.

Fill 12 greased muffin tins about 1/2 to 2/3 full. Bake at 400 degrees until straw or wood pick comes out clean when inserted into center of muffin, about 15 minutes. Don’t overbake. Serve hot. Makes 1 dozen.