Vinous Achievements

Wine lovers faced a series of lows and a few highs during 1991, and at year’s end, the recession had many wineries on the ropes. But consumers benefited from great wines at lower prices.

Slow wine sales combined with the coming on line of thousands of new acres of vines, planted during years of grape shortages, to create a glut of wine so great that discounts and close-outs of overpriced wines filled wine shops.

On the negative side, many restaurants never figured out that discounting was growing and many still marked up wines by ludicrous margins. This created situations where wines such as Beaulieu Cabernet Sauvignon were $6.89 in discount shops and $30 on wine lists.

It was the year scientists discovered trace amounts of lead in wine and the industry agreed to stop using lead capsules.

The 500-milliliter bottle was approved for interstate shipment; consumers were warned not to leave alcoholic beverages in lead crystal decanters for fear of lead leakage; the tall, slender, Italian Futura bottle became widely used--but at $20 a bottle for wine really worth only about $8.

Near year’s end, wine lovers rejoiced at a report on CBS’ “60 Minutes” quoting physicians that moderate use of wine, especially red wine, reduces the risk of heart disease.

Here is a look back on 1991 in wine terms, with personal choices for U.S. wines of the year.

Unclear on the Concept I: More California wineries joined the fad to use the word “reserve” on wines, merely to justify price tags of $30 or more for wine worth maybe half that.

Clear on the Concept: Consumers began to reject high-priced reserve wines. Some ultra-premium wines are going begging.

Gewurztraminer of the Year: 1990 Bouchaine ($7.50)--John Montero, formerly of Navarro, used grapes from Louis Martini’s Russian River vineyard to fashion a magnificent dry-styled wine. But this is a tough category in which to pick one wine. Navarro, the perennial winner of this honor, also made a great wine in 1990, as did Thomas Fogarty (the winner last year); Z. Moore; DeLoach (“Early Harvest”); Husch; Adler Fels; Lazy Creek, and Suncrest of Washington.

Good News: Wine auction prices dropped, with fine-quality Bordeaux from past vintages selling for less than a year ago.

Bad News, or “Hello? Is Anyone Home?”: Prices for new releases of Bordeaux continued to rise.

Chardonnay of the Year: 1989 Laurier ($14): This striking wine, with loads of fruit and complexity from French oak, was made by Merry Edwards 18 months before the winery went bankrupt. The brand and inventory were sold to Bronco Wine Co. Edwards, one of the best winemakers in the state, remained a consultant and winemaker for her own Merry Vintners label. Runners-Up: Au Bon Climat, St. Clement, Clos Pegase, Hess, Swanson, White Oak.

Splurge of the Year (Worth It): A half-bottle of Rene Niel eau-de-vie , any flavor. Even at its price ($20 for a half bottle), it’s worth trying. These amazing liqueurs are the best I have ever tasted. They come in a many flavors. My favorites are blackberry, cassis, peach and hazelnut, and the melon is not to be believed. Tiny 50-milliliter bottles ($3.50 each) are a way to try these remarkable products.

Splurge of the Year (Not Worth It): Courvoisier VOC Cognac in the Bacarrat Crystal Decanter ($800).

Unclear on the Concept II: Vivace, a semi-sparkling, slightly sweet Merlot. (I thought Lambrusco was dead.)

Cabernet Sauvignon of the Year: 1988 Arrowood ($23)--Perfect Cabernet character of herbs, cherries and cassis, with lush, mouth-filling flavors. A narrow winner over the wonderful 1987 Frog’s Leap ($18). Other Runners-Up: 1987 Hess Reserve (virtually unobtainable); 1987 Arrowood; 1986 Shafer Hillside Select; 1988 Quilceda Creek; 1988 Leonetti Cellars; 1987 Beringer Private Reserve; 1987 Caymus Special Selection; 1988 Grace; 1988 Meridian; 1988 Gary Farrell “Ladi’s Vineyard.”

Consumer Protection Act of the Year: California winemakers were fined $200,000 by the state for using lead capsules on bottles. Lead is banned by Prop. 65. (Feel safer now?)

Phoenix of the Year: Geyser Peak Winery. When the Trione family brought in Australian partner Penfolds, winemaker Daryl Groom came in to make the wines. The move was brilliant. Groom, whose first harvest here was 1989, showed in 1991 he can make terrific white wines, but his unreleased red wines are stunning. A winery to watch.

Sauvignon Blanc of the Year: 1990 Geyser Peak ($6.50): Fresh melon and hay aromas, flavorful entry and soft, creamy, lush aftertaste. Runners-Up: 1990 Ferrari-Carano; 1990 Kunde (first release); 1990 Greenwood Ridge; 1990 De Loach; 1990 Adler Fels; 1990 Flora Springs; 1990 Dry Creek, and 1990 Gainey.

Phoenix of 1992: Chateau Souverain.

Rookie of the Year: Kunde Estate.

Promotion of the Year: Sutter Home Winery, which staged a “Build a Better Hamburger” contest.

Zinfandel of the Year: 1989 Ridge Geyserville ($14)--Sonoma County dominates this category each year, and this wine shows why with deeply spicy fruit and a long, complex finish. Runners-Up: 1989 Nalle; 1989 Quivira; 1988 Kenwood; 1989 Haywood; 1989 Franciscan; 1989 Greenwood Ridge; 1989 Peachy Canyon; 1989 Gundlach-Bundschu Sonoma Valley.

Wine Books of the Year: Oz Clarke’s well-written, insightful “New Classic Wines” and Robert Parker’s “Bordeaux,” an upgraded reference that adds much to the literature of the famed region.

Courageous Move of the Year: Glen Ellen putting a screw cap on a $10 bottle of wine, the 1990 Dolcetto.

Semillon of the Year: 1987 Clos du Val ($8.50)--This wine is now old enough to show how graceful Semillons can get with age. The herbal, tarragon and hay aroma is backed by a honeyed component and a rich, smooth finish. Good value.

Orphan White Wine of the Year: 1990 Geyser Peak Semchard ($7.75)--This blend of Semillon and Chardonnay has the light, bright fruit quality you rarely see in Chardonnay, loads of fruit character in the mouth and a texture hard to describe, both rich and crisp.

Happiest New California Wine of the Year: Atlas Peak Sangiovese, a rich, flavorful red wine that will age nicely.

Saddest Wine Idea: Charging $25 a bottle for Sangiovese.

Merlot of the Year: 1987 Columbia Crest “Barrel Select” ($15)--More proof that Washington’s Columbia Valley is a perfect spot to grow this grape. Winemaker Doug Gore has made a string of phenomenal wines over the years and this wine may be the best of all. Loads of ripe cherry fruit and pipe tobacco scents. Runners-Up: 1989 St. Francis; 1989 Greenwood Ridge; 1989 Shafer; 1988 Matanzas Creek; 1989 Vichon.

Fad That Died in 1991: Grappa.

Fad of 1992: Single Malt Scotch.

Fad Still Waiting to Happen: The galloping of the Rhone Rangers. Despite predictions for two years that the new Rhone wines would take California by storm, these wonderful products are drunk by the cognoscenti and few else.

Pinot Noir of the Year: Tie between 1989 Williams-Selyem “Rochioli Vineyard” ($40) and 1988 Gary Farrell “Howard Allen” ($25)--Both classic Russian River Pinots with cherry, clove and cinnamon scents and a hint of mint. Just ahead of 1989 J. Rochioli Reserve, 1988 Byron Reserve; 1987 Calera Selleck, 1988 Au Bon Climat “Benedict,” 1989 Lane Tanner.

No, It’s Not Harold Stassen: Comedian Pat Paulsen, whose Sonoma County winery continues to operate under protection of the bankruptcy court, declared--yet again--his candidacy for the presidency, and at the same time released a new wine, White House White. The wine is mainly Sauvignon Blanc with Chardonnay for texture and Gewurztraminer for spice. The label says, in part: “This is not the first time I have run for president. This is the first time I have resorted to the cheap tactic of promoting my candidacy with a Special Presidential Edition of my fine wine. The wine sells for $6.50 a bottle.”

Easiest Prediction for 1992: A flood of bankruptcies, winery sales, mergers and closures will be hot news next year, the result of a strangling of the wine industry by banks and bank regulators suddenly stingy with agricultural loans.

Rose of the Year: 1990 Joseph Phelps Grenache Rose ($9)--This award goes to this startlingly delightful wine for the second year in a row. Why would anyone drink any White Zinfandel when this wine is available?

Catch-22 of the Year Award: To Merlion Winery owner George Vierra, who sought approval to use labels on wines meant for intrastate commerce that would use physicians’ comments saying that moderate use of wine is healthful. The federal bureaucrats say such labels have to conform to state laws; the state bureaucrats say such labels must conform to federal laws. So, after a year of battling, Vierra still hasn’t gotten his label approval.