So-So Entrees at Nobu Upstaged by Starters

Since opening a year and a half ago, Nobu in Solana Beach has remained strong as a purveyor of sushi and other starters, but seems these days to be paying less attention than it ought to entrees.

A certain pride and affection seem invested in the preparation of the many types of starters and snacks that open the menu at the attractive Japanese restaurant. The list of entrees, on the other hand, is considerably less extensive and seems perfunctory and dull, qualities that attach themselves to at least some of the main dishes that issue from the kitchen.

Although it unquestionably can grow dull making the same dishes repeatedly, the sushi bar cooks seem constantly on their toes. The standing menu offers several dozen choices--all available at private tables as well as at the lengthy sushi bar that occupies one side of the principal dining room--that are supplemented, as is the practice widespread among sushi bars, by daily specials that sometimes reflect the cooks’ inspiration of the moment.

Two particularly pleasant starters enjoyed at a recent meal were prepared at the sushi bar, although neither belonged precisely to that category of dish as it is widely understood in this country, since neither was used to garnish a bundle of molded rice. The first of these, kinpira-gobo , consisted of what the server translated as “mountain root” (she also compared it to the flesh of a peach, which it in no way resembled), shredded to the size of fine noodles, sprinkled with sesame seeds and subtly heated with chili oil. This was light, tasty and refreshing, and to a degree filled the role of the sweet-pungent, freshly pickled vegetables served gratis by many Japanese restaurants, a practice unfortunately not observed by Nobu.

The second special starter, ankimo , was described as “monkfish pate,” and in truth it did seem much like a fishy foie gras , very buttery and melting in texture, but very frankly advertising its association with scales and fins. The strong flavor was at first a bit off-putting, but this was one of those dishes that grows on you, and the pungent soy-based sauce that moistened it brought the flavor into line.

The list of sushi combinations offers the table a good opportunity to share, at prices ranging from $4.75 for a fairly modest kappa maki plate to $30.25 for the deluxe nigiri , which offers tastes of the choicest types of sushi. The tray of assorted rolls is good and satisfactory if rather basic (more daring types would turn up their noses at it), and will serve three or four for $6.25. The selection includes cucumber rolls, tuna rolls and slightly more elaborate imitation crab rolls (real crab evidently can be specified for an extra charge), all done neatly. Specialties, some quite elaborate, carry such names as spicy tuna roll, Philadelphia roll (yes, it includes cream cheese) and the colorful and expensive “rainbow” roll, which packs the elements of a light meal inside the seaweed wrapping.

Sushi and sashimi simply kick off the starter choices, however, which run to such less-than-usual options as boiled cod, the house special called “dynamite” (shellfish and mushrooms baked in a strongly seasoned sauce), broiled yellowtail cheek, beef sashimi (raw and sliced paper thin, much the same as Italian carpaccio) and an item called aspara - maki . As might be supposed, asparagus figures in this dish, which wraps thinly sliced beef around a trio of spears, then brushes the bundles with teriyaki sauce and quickly broils them. This would have been better had the asparagus been blanched first, since the meat cooked to the dry stage while the vegetable remained nearly raw.

There also is a better-than-average selection of soups and salads, including the clear broth called dobin-mushi ; akadashi , a strongly flavored variant on the usual miso soup, and a salad of chunked fish in a spicy dressing.

Meals do include satisfactory miso soup and a very dull, nearly tasteless green salad. These tend to come in a rush unless you warn off the server; at a recent meal, in fact, all the food would have been on the table within a few minutes had the party not made strong objections. Oddly, this happened on a slow night.

The entree list is rather dull, and with the exception of the competent and nicely arranged tempura (the serving even included a batter-fried oblong of seaweed, very delicate and crisp), the dishes themselves can leave something to be desired. Chicken teriyaki no longer is exotic, but it can be good; this one skimped on the sauce and was simply bland, as well as a bit dry. The fowl used in a serving of chicken sukiyaki similarly was dry and tasteless, although the broth itself had the requisite rich sweetness and bore a good cargo of vegetables, noodles and tofu. Other entree choices include fried cutlets of chicken, beef or pork, the soup-stew of seafood, chicken and vegetables called yosenabe , and salmon or chicken prepared in the “salt-flavored” shioyaki style.

NOBU

315 S. Highway 101, Solana Beach

Calls: 755-0113

Hours: Dinner nightly

Cost: Entrees $9.50 to $17.80; dinner for two, with a glass of wine each, tax and tip, about $35 to $70